this week I'm gonna get that fender flare installed and instead of this
offroad look it's gonna look like this
my name is Tom and welcome to garage time you know this channel is about
inspiring you to build your dream car I'm working on this Porsche restomod
project that started out as a stripped out and wrecked shell and I'm making
progress every week in this small two-car garage so please if you like
these videos please subscribe now hit that like button let's build this
together
thank you again for all your suggestions on undercoating removal I was able to
get some big chunks off now this was at the top right here at the corner window
this undercoating was failing now is the time with better access with the fender
removed to go in there and and chisel that stuff off and what I found that
worked best was kind of a combination of the rep methods you recommended
I paint stripper and I left it for several hours actually I left it
overnight and because this material is so soft it's tends to soak in and just
really create like a brittle sort of stuff and so I was able to use the putty
knife so I used some plastic putty knife so a couple metal putty knives some of
it about 80% of it just chisels off and then the remaining bits was done with
with the wire wheel on the angle grinder and that works pretty quickly the angle
grinder will power through fresh undercoating but it's just kind of dusty
and takes longer so if you break it up with the putty knife in the in the
aircraft stripper it's not that bad I mean it's a messy job but it's not that
bad so I will have some more work to do to replace this failed under coating and
I'll show you a picture underneath
okay this is underneath the rear fender well and this is the area that was
failing the undercoating was failing it was cracked and I was able to just chip
it out with my putty knife now the good news is this car hasn't been driven in
probably ten to fifteen years so even though the undercoating was cracked
there was no moisture being driven up into it by the wheel so even though this
is ugly I don't have a lot of rust repair to do this is all pretty solid
just needs to be cleaned epoxy primed and then re under coated
but I'll do a little bit more on that once I am in undercounting undercoating
mood right here this is the new area that was just wire wheeled with the
angle grinder and it's now shiny metal ready to weld so let's get to it okay
last week I talked about this area here being a little bit mismatched from the
new flare and that's because the new flare when it was cut off the car was
cut a little bit too low so I don't have enough so I'm gonna have to modify the
car to match the new flare and I need to stretch it out in this section here so
I've just put some Sharpie lines on there where it needs to be stretched and
I also have used my contour gauge to sort of monitor the progress as it gets
stretched so this technique is known as hammer on dolly and that ringing sound
you hear is what you want because you're actually compressing the metal between
the heavy dolly this is my heaviest dolly and my heaviest hammer and and
every time you hit it it takes the metal and stretches it it pushes it out so
when you push it out its gonna mushroom this way
you
you
okay you can see some daylight underneath the contour gauge it's
already moving quite a bit so I'm gonna go a little bit further and and then I'm
gonna start welding and then finishing the contour once it's tacked in place
okay you can see the hammer marks there in the metal so I know exactly where
I've hit it and this doesn't dent the metal at all
as long as you have good control of the hammer and you're hitting the dolly
right it doesn't dent anything it just stretches the metal out so I think
that's enough stretching I'll check it one more time with the contour gauge and
then we'll start fitting the flare and tack it in
okay the strategy has been to weld the area that was the exact cut so if you
remember from last time I cut right through both these panels at the same
time and that means that this is no more adjustment needed right here so I have
to started here now I'm coming around to the top and I'm I'm using my reference
marks on the bar to double-check that I'm in the right ballpark so what was
really important on this flare is that it's at the right height and at the
right distance out and then the curvature you know is just based on how
it feels I do have some templates that run up the center but here's how we go
so far so at the moment I'm at 226 millimeters and the target was 225 so
the height is is is very close to where it should be
and this is still overlapping right here in the center so on the other side I
made a mistake and I cut it too soon before I measured these Heights
correctly and this time I'm in better shape because I can come back and
fine-tune this gap to just about zero the other measurement is the distance
you know in and out so the clearance to the wheel and that's what the plumb
Bob's for okay the plumb bob is Dingling here's the target right here this is the
target line right about there and it is just it's about a millimeter too far in
so I will cut this tack weld shift it out a millimeter and and then do the
final trim here at the top so that everything is in the correct place much
easier the second time around
lunchtime
all right it's just a little bit after lunch now and I have everything trimmed
and gapped and tacked in place so from the front torsion bar hole all the way
back here to the bumper it is now in its final position so I'm gonna go for the
final time and just check that things didn't move too much
the in-and-out position from the wheel is is good and it's the same as the
other side I do have this jacked up a little bit so I get the wheel off but
it's not throwing the measurement off very much the rear end is sitting about
a quarter of an inch higher on this side than the other side but it's really not
throwing off the distance here very much yeah the height is 226 which is exactly
what it was with the old flare so this position is correct the line here is
correct so it's centered and it's basically right right where I want it to
be which is which is awesome I'm really excited so now I can get this bar out of
my way before I impale myself I'm gonna take it off on both sides it's just tack
welded in I'm gonna cut that off
I almost forgot something I was going to show you one more check that I did to
verify that the arch is the correct shape so this being you know removed
from the car it's actually a little bit flexible in this direction so I've taken
the the flare this is the flare from the passenger side that was original to my
car and I'm doing a mirror image and just lining it up to the top crease and
I'm just you know the the profile is different because this is an RS flare
but I'm able to site along the top and make sure that everything is planar and
that there is no there's no change in the overall length so the wheel is
always going to be centered in the car so I could trace it right down here to
the torsion bar hole and it is it's the same exact arch so this was another good
check I had forgot to do this on the other side but I've gone back and put
this flare over there now and luckily that one is okay as well
so that means that there's no there's no shrinking in this direction I don't want
this to shrink due to welding or hammering I don't want this to change so
I will periodically check it so I like to use this scale to verify that both
panels are lined up across the gap so I mean this being flexible I can bend it
into the position and sight along the edges so I'm doing that I also wanted to
show you guys the dolly I'm using this is a pretty heavy dolly
it's a Martin Martin dolly I think the the number is worn off of it now but
this is like what I call the blob and it's pretty heavy which is what you want
when you're dealing with something that's flexible like this like this you
know this is pretty firm but the sheet metal's so thin you need something sort
of heavy so it doesn't bounce and then depending on the situation with the
store I will sometimes use this as my hammer
so this is kind of a hammer ax without a handle and I don't know this is a very
cheap one and I think I modified it there used to be something here on the
top which I think I cut off so it's nice because you can put put it like a like a
knuckle like a brass knuckle and then you can hit from the backside so
oftentimes what will happen when welding is this will this will shrink down so
rather than trying to stretch it from this side it's always a little easier to
hammer from the back side so I can you know keep this in my right hand and just
hit it from the back and back it up with a dolly so if you listen that sharp ring
is what you want you want to be stretching the welds and you want the
moving metal sort of out if it shrinks down sometimes it bulges up in that case
I will you know switch it I'll put this in the back and I'll use the hammer on
the front but I find this tool extremely valuable I will look for it and leave a
link in the description below if you want to check it out ok at this point
it's just a bunch of welding connect-the-dots so to speak so I'm
going to turn the camera off and spare you all the flashy lights and
just get it done okay so bear with me success at last finally after hours of
welding and hammering I think I got it
so now the next order of business is to grind down these welds now all the
distortions have been removed I've checked it I don't want to introduce
more heat that's gonna warp it especially in this section right here
which is very flat so what I do is and believe it or not I use a cut-off wheel
and I grind the high points of the weld I mean these TIG welds don't have a lot
of high points anyways but I just take a quick pass with the edge so going here
on the edge it's just taken a quick pass and then a final grinding is done with
this you know roll lock disc two inch roll lock disk about an 80 grit disc and
that's what I use
nailed it if you're interested in learning more about the welding
especially TIG welding like I've done here on this flare I have a video on the
screen now to learn more about why I like TIG so much also on the screen is a
playlist of all my Porsche resto mod videos in chronological order so you
don't miss any and don't forget to purchase in the description below a
t-shirt coffee mug stickers all available to help support garage time I
appreciate it and we'll see you next week
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