now hello folks this is Yamil Sued for the Rainier ballistics channel and I'm here
again at the Dillon studios in Scottsdale Arizona with my friend Gary
Kieft, Gary is reloading guru and today we're going to talk about brass we're
gonna select brass okay. sure! now help me Gary I've heard there is thee kinds of
brass is that true? That is correct the the most desirable
is going to be new factory brass this is like if you were to buy it from the
manufacturer it's never been fired never been loaded and you know the
quality you know where it came from
the second tier below that is one's
fired brass now ideally it's once fired through your firearm
you know what chamber it was fired in and what pressures it was loaded at
otherwise there are controlled conditions where you can get once fired
brass either from test ranges from firearms manufacturers sometimes from
police departments where their training where they're shooting all of you know
thousands of rounds of all the same brand and lot of ammunition and then the
third tier is range brass range brass has an indeterminate origin it's likely
to be very mixed head stamps mixed manufacturers some of it may be once
fired some of it may be fired 15 times or more there's absolutely no way to
know what you're getting and so it requires the most sorting and
concentration on it
well that's what I heard Gary there's the council brass but
there's also several variations don't we need to talk about like primer pockets
size in 45 ACP which is what we're going to be loading here. correct some of the
manufacturers use small primers in their 45 ACP ammunition this started when
ammunition manufacturers first made brass ammunition with
free primers for law enforcement use on indoor ranges so that they didn't have
to worry about ingesting lead
small primers were the only size primarily
available in lead-free primers everybody was primarily loading nine-millimeter
and 40 Smith & Wesson for law enforcement so they decided to use these
small primers in 45 ACP for this purpose as well
now the bean counters that some of the manufacturers have decided that using a
small primer saves them a small fraction of a cent per round and so now you find
it in primarily the bulk ammunition when you buy a hundred round pack of 45 acp
in some brands you'll find its small primed or as their higher quality their
defensive ammunition their match ammunition still uses large primer
pockets. yeah and that's I mean you're gonna
notice when that happens when you're trying to prime in a press like we're
going to use the 550 you'll figure out that you have really quick really quick
yeah but for example if you're using a 1050 and yours-- wagers not connected
you're gonna find it in a very loud manner loud and shocking manner because
you will have a detonation that is not good
correct so I would recommend that you go through all your brass and make sure
that you have the right primer pocket for the primer you're using yeah the
small prime 45 ACP brass is still very reloadable but you need to only load it
with small primers. absolutely I mean I've found a lot of people that do
prefer that brass when they can find it and I will be more than happy to give it
to him
understand! before we forget what about aluminum and steel cases
okay
aluminum cases were originally introduced for an economy line of
ammunition by spear they were Berdan primed aluminum not reloadable
in a consolidation effort and to save them money they decided to
change it over to a boxer primer so they could discontinue production of their
berdan primers for that case but it's still an aluminum case and it is just
not structurally sound enough for safe reloading. okay that's what I thought
yeah but how about steel cases okay there's two types of steel cases out
there there's steel cases that look like steel cases and then there's brass
plated steel cases from some of the European ammunition manufacturers
oh really that I didn't know. the steel cases work harden faster than brass and
so they'll crack faster also the increase the wear on your reloading
equipment on the dies okay and then the brass plated stuff the only way to
detect it is to either know the manufacturers headstamp on the case or
to use a magnet. oh that's a good idea you know the easiest way if you've got a
tub full of brass just get a big industrial magnet hold it in your hand
run it through the the brass and it'll pull everything that's steel out of
there. cool that's a great idea yeah and of course when you're gonna reload and
you have like you said range brass you should inspect it. very much so because
you want to sort out all the small prime from the large primed look for crack
case necks look for the steel cases bulging and brass - yeah to an extent
and that depends a lot on what type of firearm it was fired in. okay okay well
that's a does a great tips Gary and one last thing you showed me this old
Winchester piece of brass with a gigantic flash hole
what was that all about that was because in 2004 and 2005 when Winchester
first started to get into lead-free primers they wanted to use a large
primer in 45 because that was what they were used to using but the lead-free
Primers have less flash than a traditional
ed stiffening primer so they made the flash hole larger much larger it's
approximately two-and-a-half times bigger than a standard flash hole yeah
that thing is gigantic there and originally Winchester said these were
safe to load use the same load data and then about ten years after that they
came out with another news release saying we do not recommend that you
reload these cases so it's a harder search to find them but fortunately
there's just not that much of that brass out there anymore just attrition it's
pretty well taking care of that and you've gone by the wayside so you can't
find that anymore well Gary this is being very formative
thank you for being with us and let's continue our series of videos on how to
reload yeah happy to do it well thanks for watching stay tuned for more
information from Rainier ballistics on how to reload
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