Hi, Alan Stratton, from As Wood Turns (www.AsWoodTurns.com) You have to have dry wood in order to turn,
Right? Well, No! If you have to have dry wood, it's going to be costly, both in terms of
money and in time. You can figure a year per inch of thickness plus a year as a rule of
thumb. It varies widely from that. But, hey, what do you do?
So, dug out your chain saw and talk to your friends, and cut down trees. Well, Okay.
It warps, right? What do you do about that? One alternative is to turn it rough. Then
let it dry. Then return it. Well, that is if you remember it. And you get around to
it again. This piece of ash I turned twelve years ago. I wonder when it will be dry?
Or, like for this piece of chestnut. You can turn it to finished thickness and go ahead
and sand it and be done with it. Well, but won't it warp. Well, Yes. In fact
for this bowl, I hope it warps a lot. I may not get my wish. You'll see it on
the lathe but it's wobbly but maybe not quite as much as I'd like. But yet, this
is a nice bowl. It has some interesting figure in it. Spaulting is this black. Why does the
spaulting not go in this area, here? Good question. Or, in this case, I think this is
staining from the bark. All in all, an interesting bowl that I hope
will warp a lot. So. Let's turn it green to finished dimensions
and let it warp. I received this block of wet chestnut from
a club wood raffle. It looks like it has been harvested and processed right. The end grain
has been sealed and the wood is in a plastic trashbag.
As I open the bag, it is kind of a slimy mess-typical for well treated wood that has been in the
bag for a couple of months. It has a variety of mold and bark staining. But, I decide that
I don't want a bowl that deep and I don't want to waste all that beautiful wood. At
least, it is ugly now but I have faith that it is beautiful inside.
So, I went to the bandsaw and sawed it in half. Now I can make two bowls from this chestnut.
I put the 2nd block back in a plastic sack. I need to get back to it within a month. I
also cut off the corners. Maybe I can make a ball from the corners. Then I drilled a
¼" hole for a screw chuck. Now mounted to the lathe, I can start removing
wood. The wood is heavy and off balance so I cannot turn up the speed very much. I'm
starting with my large bowl gouge trying to find solid wood at the bottom then cut up.
This way I'm cutting side grain with a lot less bounce.
Once I have a continuous cut, I can get serious about shaping. I want to emulate a form from
a recent club demonstration. It is kind of wok like from the top with a small base. The
wall thickness is uniform for only the outer lip – near the center over the base, it
is much thicker to retain a gradual curve on the interior. Since I'm turning green
wood to final thickness, this bowl will warp. Actually, I hope it warps a lot.
Before I go too crazy with the shape, I need to cut the mounting tenon. Then finish the
outside wood removal. Next, remove it from the screw chuck and remount
it in the 4 jaw chuck on the tenon I cut in the bottom. And, hollow it with my large bowl
gouge. With the live center in place I like to hog out a lot of the wood before switching
to a more gentle cut coming from the perimeter. Then remove more of the center core with a
hogging cut before again switching to a more gentle cut to refine the interior shape. I'm
keeping the live center in place for as long a possible. I do not dare hog out without
the live center keeping the bowl in its place. At this point, I am not trying to maintain
a consistent wall thickness. Instead it is a gentle inside curve.
I'm finished with this bowl for now. It is very wet. I can see the interesting effects
from mold spaulting and stain from the bark. I don't want to sand it now. It would only
clog up the sandpaper. So the bowl goes into a brown paper shopping bag with no sealer.
The bag will temper the drying environment. I will leave it in the bag for about a week
while at least the surface moisture evaporates. It's time to clean out the pile of wood
shavings from the shop. I love turning green wood but not necessarily cleaning out the
piles of shavings. Now to finish the bowl. Since the bowl has
warped, the lathe turns into a mounting platform. I am not trying to turn it perfectly round.
Instead I want the warp. So now I have to do a lot of power sanding. Do I start with
220 grit and brag? No way! I'm actually starting with 60 grit and allowing the sanding
to follow the warp. I keep the sander moving to remove ridges and follow the warpage. I'm
wearing my respirator. I finish my sanding with 400 grit paper and
a bit more by hand on the outer rim. Everything is finished now except for the
foot. Yes, it is still wet but should be dry enough to finish. I've mounted a domed faceplate
to the lathe. Then a bit of old rotten sanding mat for a cushion. The bowl is held in place
with the live center in the original divot from the center. Then with a small spindle
gouge, refine the foot. Since I have a lot of wood in the foot, I'm hollowing it up
from the bottom a little more than I would otherwise.
Finally, sign and apply a soaking coat of walnut oil, wipe it off. Then I'm allowing
it to dry a couple more days before buffing it to a nice shine. There is plenty of room
in my showcase for green turned, warped bowls. This one has nice grain and interesting spaulting
and natural staining. Why wait for wood to dry, turn it green. I still have the other
half to turn. Please give this video a thumbs up, subscribe
on my website, tell your friends and send me your comments and questions. Every week
I make a new woodturning video. Please wear your full face shield but I hope you never
have to thank me. Until next week's video this is Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns dot
com.





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