this week I'll show you how I set up my Sony a7iii for photography
now a few of you have been asking for some help in setting up the cameras for
photography these cameras are pretty amazing in the
way that you can customize them so much so in no way is this the best way to set
up your camera I've just found it's a way that works well for me you may find
that programming different buttons in different ways works better for you but
that's the great thing with these they're so customizable when I'm taking
photographs I'm normally in aperture priority mode or manual mode when things
are changing fast in front of me or our shooting sports or fast-moving subjects
I'll have it in aperture priority this is a kind of semi-automatic mode and it
means I'm utilizing the function of the metering system in the camera I'm
choosing what aperture I shoot at and then the cameras choosing anything else
if I don't like how the cameras chosen the shot I can very quickly dial it in
using my exposure compensation dial when things are more controlled I'll switch
over to manual mode say if I'm shooting architecture landscapes or portraits
basically in situations where I have time to change the settings or I have
complete control over the lighting situation
I'll always shoot in manual then I can tweak and tune each setting to exactly
where I want it so that's how I shoot now I'll show you in the menus how I set
everything up I am a hybrid shooter so I do shoot a lot of video as well as
photographs so there will be certain settings that are for both but most of
my settings are set for photography I'll also briefly explain why I change
certain parameters so I'm in the menus I'm on tab 1 and we're going to start on
these file format I keep it too raw if you were a little bit intimidated by
Rahl have it on raw and JPEG but if you're editing in any kind of editing
software like Lightroom keep it on raw learn how to develop those pictures the
raw file type are kicks are compressed and then I don't worry about JPEG
quality or image size because I'm not shooting JPEG yes pick ratio I keep two
three two two instead of sixteen by nine three by two just a nice shape to the
image ApS super 35 that's a crop mode I only
really use that for video long exposure noise reduction I keep this off this is
really irritating when you're doing astrophotography and you take a shot
because it doubles the time if you're taking a shot for a minute
you'll have to wait another minute if you want to see my video on a long
exposure noise reduction click on the I in the corner a color space I keep -
srgb with the drive mode I have it on the
button here but this is where to find it in your menus this is where you just
change from single shot to multi shoot high burst setting and bracket shootings
and things like that next one is bracket settings this is where you can have a
delay on the bracket and you can also choose what order the brackets are going
to be in if you're not sure what bracketing shots is click on the I on
the corner this will take you to one of my videos this next setting I don't use
this memory one and memory two that's the one and two on your mode dial the
reason I don't use this is say if I'm shooting throughout the day what I'll
find is if I've recorded those settings in the morning it may change till the
afternoon so say if I'm shooting a number one and I switched back to number
two for whatever reason the settings might have changed and if I'm in a high
pressured environment I might not notice that the settings have changed slightly
or I'll take a few shots and it might be under or overexposed
I prefer to change the settings as I'm going along so I ignore those memory
settings the next one the focus modes this is where you choose between single
shot auto focus and continuous there are other modes to this but I tend to use
either single shot or continuous shooting the next two the priority set
in AFS with priority set in AFS I have it set to AF this means the camera won't
take a shot until it's got focus when you're in AFS or you're taking a single
shot so you want the focus to find a point and stick to it
you need that focus point before taking a photo so this kind of makes sense with
the AFC I tend to have this on balanced emphasis because normally if I'm in a
King mode and I'm on autofocus continuous I'm following something maybe
a motorbike rider or a car or a subject that's moving towards me normally then
I'll have it in a high-speed drive mode and I'll want the camera to take as many
shots as possible if you have this set to AF and the autofocus kicks out a
little bit it'll stop in the drive mode so you'll kind of miss a few photographs
and it'll be quite jerky and stuttering so you I keep AFS on auto focus priority
and I have a FC on balanced emphasis the next one is focus area I keep this on
flexible spot I just like having the focus point where I want it and when you
use this in conjunction with the touchscreen it works really well with
the focus settings we'll go into that in a bit
this just means you move your Square and then if you control your dial you turn
those I have it set to this middle button so when I press that that's my
focus settings this SWT vertical horizontal auto focus area when you have
this turned on it means you can set a focus area for when you're in portrait
mode and when you're in landscape mode I don't worry about this too much I've
been shooting with cameras for so long that I know whether your auto focus
point is and I'll just keep it in that point AF illuminator that's that orange
light on the front so if you're shooting in low-light conditions it'll throw a
bit more light in so the camera will be aided in getting auto focus sense lot
auto focus I keep that off I don't shoot weddings so I don't worry too much about
this say if I'm doing a portrait shoot I might turn this on but I keep that off
the track sensitivity I've got it on number five and then this bottom one
what I focus with shutter I keep this off I'll use back button focusing so my
focusing is on this back button and I just literally use the shutter button to
take the photograph and set my auto exposure when I'm in the more automatic
modes like aperture priority I'll keep the auto focus away from the shutter
button and I'll put it on one of the buttons on the back this is just a
system I've got used to and I really like it if you're interested in back
button focusing click on the eye in the corner this will take you to one of my
the pre-order focus I keep this off this just means when your cameras just sat
there it'll track and autofocus and it'll focus on what's in the in the
focus square but the problem with this is if say you're focusing square is on a
white wall it may track around a little bit so I just keep this off and I just
want it to focus when I tell it to I don't worry about these border focus
areas yeah I don't worry about any of that micro just I think this is more for
when you're using the a mount lenses so I don't worry about that I use the
exposure compensation dial up on the shoulder so I don't worry about these
this is where you would change the exposure compensation in the menu I
program my ISO on this back dial so this is again just where to get to it in the
menus ISO is one of your three main settings that will control how the photo
looks therefore I want quick and easy access to it I'll show you how to set
this up in the custom menus I normally keep my metering mode to multi and
sometimes I'll use spot standard but most of the times I'm in multi metering
mode it does a really good job and say if you're shooting in aperture priority
you can then use your exposure compensation dial if it doesn't quite
hit the mark of where you want the photo to be face priority in multi meter mode
I have this on what this does is prioritize the person's face if there
are any faces in the shot spot metering points I keep this to focus point link
so when I'm using the flexible spot what it'll do is wherever that flexible spot
is when you're using spot metering it'll take a meter from where that focusing
point is so say if I'm focusing on someone's face it'll take the meter off
that face but this is in spot metering only I quite like that function next we
go to exposure step I always keep this on a third of a stop what this means is
whenever you click your shutter your aperture or your ISO dial
every three klicks in one direction will change it by one stop whether it's an
increase or a decrease in a stop of light this means I can feel my way
around the camera so say if I'm changing my aperture I know three clicks will
change it by one stop if I'm changing my ISO three clicks on the dial will change
it by one stop next auto exposure lock with shutter I have this on it just
means when I half press my shutter button the auto exposure will lock now I
don't really use flashes and when I do I have them in manual mode so I don't
worry about any of this next we've got white balance normally I'll have my
white balance on daylight I've just got it set to cloudy because it's very blue
in here when you're filming the back of a camera I don't use auto white balance
so I don't worry about that I have dr io set to OFF creative style
that's just something that's baked in the JPEG so I don't worry about that
either pix profile I keep that off that's more for filming say when I am
filming I'll use the pro color pack from Andrew read and EOS HD I have all of
those settings programmed in there but when I'm taking photographs I keep the
picture profile off if you do shoot JPEGs the picture profile is something
that you can change the look of the shot with but again I prefer shooting in RAW
and I'd say if you want to get as much information out of the camera as
possible shoot in raw and then really refine your photos in an editing program
like Lightroom next we have the focus magnifier basically what this is is this
little box that you can zoom in and get critical focus I switch the focus
magnifying time to no limit the initial focus magnification two times one and
then I have auto focus in focus magnification on with a manual focus
assist I switch this off basically what manual focus assist does
is if I switch it on I'll show you if I switch to manual focus and I start using
the focus data it seems in automatically that's manual
focus assist I don't like that I prefer to keep that off so when I'm turning the
focusing dial it stays on the full frame then if I need to I'll hit the
magnification tool to get zoomed in you may like this option I don't next we
have focus peaking this basically is what that red color was on the screen
when I was manual focusing I have it on I have it mid and I have it red so you
can see the red lines around that little speaker if I change to here you can see
the red lines around that and if I change the cup you can just about see a
red tint on the edge focus peaking is really good when using vintage lenses or
manual focus lenses only it really helps get that focus next we have anti flicker
shoot I'll kick this off I don't really shoot under fluorescent lights this is
something you might have to experiment with if you do shoot under fluorescent
but I don't so I keep it off I don't really register faces in it
either maybe if you're shooting weddings you might want to register the bride's
face that's up to you I don't really do that next we're on to movies don't worry
about those not shooting movies or we're not talking about video functions at the
moment silent shooting I kicked it off unless
I'm shooting in something like a church or a place where it's really sensitive
to sound but I'll keep that off I kind of like the clicking of the camera I
know I've taken a shot be front curtain I'll keep that on release without lens I
enable this I use manual focus lenses a lot so you need to enable this if using
a manual focus lens otherwise it won't take a photograph
release without card I disabled this I've had a couple of times before all I
set this where I'd start on a shoot I'd start taking photographs
I'd be 5 or 10 photos in and then I'll realize that I
don't have a card in the camera so if you set this to disabled it means the
camera won't take a picture and it'll actually flash up a warning saying that
there's no card in the camera but it won't let you take a photograph with a
steady shot I keep that on steady shop settings I have it to auto
when using native lenses when using manual lenses it'll switch to manual
automatically and then you just need to change this to the focal length that
you're at but I have a native lens on there now so I'll keep it to auto the
zoom settings that's more for movie settings with this Display button this
is what's displayed on the back of the screen and in the EVF so on the monitor
I have display all info no display info histogram and levels with a finder I
have levels histogram no display and display all info so all this means is if
you hit the UP button on this dial on the back you can see it Scrolls through
different things from the leveling function through to all information no
information and then the histogram find a monitor I keep this to manual so I'll
switch between the monitor and the viewfinder you'll see later on in the
menus which button I set it to with the zebra settings I've done a video on
zebras already so click on the I on the corner if you want to see that video see
these zebras that's what zebras are it just shows what might be overexposed but
as I said if you want to learn about zebras click on the I in the corner with
a grid line this is where you'll set it to whatever grid you want it over it as
you can see on my screen I've got the rule of thirds grid this is just a
gentle reminder of where I'm putting my subject so I can follow the rule of
thirds if I need to exposure set guide I'll keep this off live view display I
have this setting on what this basically is is as it's an electronic viewfinder
and it's a monitor and it's mirrorless it shows you what the vote
is gonna look like before you take it if you're using a flash and you've got
really low ambient light this is what you'll want to turn off but I keep it on
when I'm not using the flash continuous OOP length all this does is kind of show
a little display on the side where it would kind of show if the buffers full
or not so if you click on always display when we have it to drive mode see this
little line here can't really see it that little line next to manual focus
when you shoot as you can see as the buffer fills up it drops down but I have
that set to not displayed auto review this is where if you want to see the
image on the back of the camera after you've taken it because we have that
live view I keep this off with this camera you see the photo before you've
taken it so you know exactly what it looks like now we're on to the custom
keys this top one is for photographs the next one is for video and this one is
for playback so we'll just be focusing on this one for now and this is where I
set all the custom keys like C 4 C 3 C 2 and C 1 as well as this back dial and
also this button here F on and the AEL they're all programmable control wheel
is IO so I like to have ISO on this back dial shutter speed on this top dial and
aperture on the front dial by the shutter button it just means I have
direct control of all those three settings custom button one I have focus
mode that's up on the shoulder here custom button - I have white balance I
used to shoot with the gh4 and the white balance was up there so I've kind of got
used to it being their custom button 3 this button here I set to aps-c 35 mode
I do this because I'm a hybrid shooter so when I'm shooting like 4k videos I
want to very quickly switch between the two I could program it differently for
stills but I don't there's so many customizable buttons on this camera that
I don't really use them all so in being a hybrid shooter I have that
set of that so we can change it to what you want custom button fall is this bin
down the bottom I have it set to auto focus manual focus controlled toggle so
as I'm pressing that button I can switch between horror focus and manual focus
that's very quick and I know it's there I just remember it's there and that's
the button I use now and to be honest that's the great thing with these custom
buttons you can program them to whatever you want these are just the ones that
work for me on the next one we have the multi selector center button that is the
joystick I have this to auto focus on I know some people have auto focus on
where it's labeled but I just have it where the joystick is a center button is
focus settings we went over that earlier that means I can press this and change
where the focus point is and basically change the focus areas the left button
is drive mode that is standard in the camera so I keep it to that
the right button I have as focus magnifier that's this button here so
this is an ISO with me anymore the actual dial is ISO and when I press
right that's my focus magnifier and the down on this dial is find a monitor
select so that is where I switch between looking at the monitor and using the EVF
on the third one I have this AEL button as bright monitoring so say if I'm
shooting astrophotography and I want to see the composition I'll have this
button pre-selected as it when you click on any one of these you can see you've
got 22 different lists of things that you can program in so you've got so many
different options are we on 17 so you've got so many different options and that
was a bright one that's right the next one or to focus on that's this button
here and I have that too I or to focus so if I'm doing portraits I know I can
focus with this button and very quickly move my finger up to here for I
autofocus I also have the focus hold button to I order focus and that's on
the actual lenses you'll get certain lenses with a button on the side that's
what that means so we're gonna ignore these next two I
don't change any of the playback custom keys keep them as they are I don't mind
them as they are a function menu set that is basically this FN button that's
this list down the bottom here so the function menu set here's how I have them
the upper one is face priority in autofocus and next is drive mode
creative style steady shot steady shot focal length and zebra display and then
on along the bottom I have focus mode metering mode picture
profile steady shot adjust focus area and shoot mode sir if I go in there I've
dropped the exposure down so you can see it a little bit better but you can see
here so this is the point where I'll change the focus area and then with my
steady shot very quickly I can come in here and turn my Ibis on or off
oops but then if I'm shooting with and manual focus lens this went down the
bottom will be on manual then very quickly I can change the focal length
that the steady shot is set to with a manual focus lens because obviously with
a manual focus lens it doesn't detect it but I'm shooting with the native lens so
I'll keep it on auto I also quickly access my picture profiles here my
multimeter in mode and creative styles I don't really touch there much but I was
kind of running out of things to put in here so yeah it's that's just the way it
is got my zebras so I can turn them on and off quickly so yeah you know there's
so many different customizable things in this camera I'm just running out of
things to fill these spaces with anyway I'll go back to the menu with my dial
set up I'll have it AV on the front so that's aperture priority on the front
and shutter speed on the back you can swap them over if you want I'm just used
to that way and then I keep rotate to normal this means you can change the
direction where you'll increase or decrease your exposure for these dials
this dial exposure compensation means that you can have the exposure
compensation set to one of these two dials I don't see the point in this
because it's literally on this dial here move your button we're not worrying
about those lock operation parse audio signals audio signals this is basically
beep on focus don't be a beeper turn this off so annoying when you have a
photographer this just beeping away so yeah just keep that off
irritating next is just network settings I sometimes send images straight to my
phone but most of the time I'll bring them off the SD upload them into my
computer or on a hard drive and then edit them there so I don't worry too
much about network settings playback I keep the same as well and now we're on
to setup with a setup obviously monitor brightness changes your monitor
brightness these all pretty much do what they say I don't change that color temp
I don't use gamma display assist that's more of a video setting display quality
hi again these are mostly mostly video settings cleaning mode if you've got a
real stubborn bit of dirt on your sensor that a blower can't get it off click on
this and it'll buzz this sensor and then it'll get you to restart the camera and
it I think it remaps the sensor as well so if you've got some stubborn dirt
before taking it to be cleaned try clicking on this with the touch
operation I have this on I think this is a really good function and it basically
means I can move my focusing Square to exactly where I want it so I'll put on
that cap and focus on the echo and focus on that bottle so you can very quickly
get your focusing points and focus on exactly what you want to instead of kind
of slowly getting it over to there and slowly pushing it down here
I think Canon have had this function for a while and I wish Sony you would have
adopted it earlier but they haven't but at least they've got it now next touch
panel pad this just gives you the option of having it where you're just using
your monitor or were you using your monitor and your
EVF so with touch panel and pad that means that when I'm using my monitor
that's what the panel is full and you got the touch pad so the touch panel is
basically this and then the touch pad is when you're in your EVF you can use this
to move your focusing point I have it to touch panel and pad with the touch pad
settings I have operation in vertical orientation on the next one I have
absolute position and I have the whole screen this is just what I've become
used to all these don't worry about too much USB connections so don't worry
about too much either set file name I have two different cameras I have the a
73 and the a7 r2 so sometimes I'll have images and I don't know which camera
they'll have come from this is where I've remedy that situation I have this
set to a 73 so as you can see my images will come through a 73 and the number
file that they are then I know straight away which camera they come from I think
there's anything in there called media settings everyone was going on about how
it has two slots and how important that is if I'm doing a professional shoot
I'll make sure that it records to both I'll have it set to simultaneous but
what I'm just shooting for myself I just have it set to standard and that's
pretty much it with a my menu setting I put format and monitor brightness and
the viewfinder brightness there but I don't really have much else in there
there's so many customizable buttons in this camera that you don't really need
this like with the function button and with 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 customizable buttons
on this I have everything where I need it all I
do is bring format and monitor brightness and viewfinder brightness
here in my menu if you want to put more things in go to my menu setting menu to
an add item and then this will give you anything that you want to add but I have
everything I need in there I'm happy with that and that's about it I'm sure
there are hundreds if not thousands of ways to set up this camera no one way is
better than another you might have things that suit you better
and I might have things that suit me better I'm just showing you how I set up
my camera as always if you like what you see give me a thumbs up if you didn't
give me a thumbs down and for weekly tutorials hints and tips in photography
and videography subscribe and turn on notifications I'll see you next time
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