Welcome back to Sipa's garage.
This part 2 of the series starts from one of the numerous small gravel roads of the Finland.
These gravel roads are perfect for pretenting that you are Tommi Mäkinen or Juha Kankkunen driving at Tunturi rally.
And try not to wrap the car around tree. Especially now when I yet haven't fixed the airbags.
And as you can see, the car just rolled in 380 000 km.
But the reason I'm filming now here is because lot of people asked, how well the new lights I bought worked.
So hopefully you now get an idea.
I will just focus on the road.... Like that.
I will first turn off the lights.
Last time the blinkers did light up more than the driving lights so..
So this is pretty much how "well" the original lights did work.
If you remember that.
So these are the normal driving lights now.
Really good.
Then the high beams.
Those show really far away.
Really good.
These would even more better with some really high quality bulbs. Because now I have there the cheap bulk ones that these lights came with.
But have been happy how these are now, so no need for that.
Because i can see with these really well. And hopefully it shows on camera that the light pattern is also very solid.
No problems in that either. So I'm very pleased for these.
But task will be fixing the engine, so let's start that.
Which looks like this. It has few problems like it stumbles every time rapidly apply throttle and it missing quite lot of power.
For the missing power I already find one reason. It's not probably the only one.
But I will show that.
As you can see the throttle pedal looks normal.
But tada! It's completely broken in two pieces.
When I press this, it doesn't go all the way in. I have to pinch like this to be able to floor this.
But if i do that, it clearly makes a difference.
So that's one reason for missing power.
So that needs to be replaced.
But the engine has some other problems also.
If we look here, easiest thing to check is the intake boot, which will crack quite often.
But that looks to be intact.
oh...
Well fuck. it's now like that.
So that at least doesn't cause vacuum leak.
MAF I think has been replaced recently. That does look much newer than other parts here.
The receipts in the car said that the camshaft sensor has just been replaced.
So that SHOULD be ok.
But it's not healthy engine, i can say that.
Maybe i will start it now.
Firstly this...
Well now it started as it should.
It sounds very good. Little bit of ticking but this already has almost 400k in the clock so i'm not concerned about that.
That's fine. But if i give it little bit of thorttle...
It doesn't rev freely and almost chokes.
Especially when I'm driving at low RPM it really struggles.. Like that.
It doesn't rev up like it should.
So that's a problem too.
Then about other vacuum leaks. I will open this.
It clearly runs differently as it should.
And it has good vacuum here at oil cap.
So at least there isn't major vacuum leak anywhere.
So something else is wrong.
So next i will plug in my laptop and see what the engine control unit has to say.
I will need the cable.
This doesn't have the OBD2 port inside the car, I have to use the round one here.
This goes here... What...
oh.. Wrong way.
Like that.
And other end inside, because it' so cold here outside.
Is this long enough.
It's bit too short.
Maybe I get this loose.
That should do it.
It's so much below zero that my fingers would freeze trying to use the PC.
Yeah.
Led is lit do it's ok.
And now the other end to the laptop and we should be in.
First I will read the fault codes.
Turn on the ignition.
This is much faster to use than INPA.
DME
So those are the codes this shows.
65 Camshaft angle pulse generator.
Well this is bit interesting code because this can also mean some fault in crankshaft signal also.
And when I did all the faults that this car had had... Well not faults but the receipts I found for this.
And those said that recently both crank and camshaft sensors have been replaces.
During last year.
So it's bit suspicious that one of those would be broken again.
But so it looks like.
Lets watch some live data first.
And this also shows fault on cylinder 4 ignition coil.
Again looking about those receipts, this fault has been there for several times during the last year.
But this coil hasn't been replaced. Only the spark plugs for few times even.
What an stupid thing to do if the ecu clearly says that the coil is faulty.
I will have to throw in working one.
But lets open the RomRaider logger to see some live data.
Throttle position.
Yeah as i thought. It's not going full throttle.
Because of the pedal.
If i pinch it it will got wide open throttle.
So that needs to be replaced.
then lets go here and start the engine.
It started and first we will check the vanos angle.
Is it totally flat line.
Well yeah. No sings of life in that.
Clearly there is sensor fault.
Air mass looks good.
Seems reasonable.
TPS position looks otherwise as it should.
Not sure why it previously did show code for that.
Lets run this for a while to see the lambda integrators work.
But this starts to explain all the faults in the engine. The broken pedal prevents it going to WOT.
And the broken cam or cranck sensor prevents the ecu from using the vanos.
Which also makes the engine lose power.
Also the engine adaptations won't be working because these fault codes.
So all need to be good for the adaptations to work.
The lambda sensor may not be in prefect health because it takes this long for those to wake up.
But those should soon start to show something.
If those do not show anything, we also have faulty lambda sensors. But those should give clear fault code in that case.....
Well lets read the adaptations here as we wait to see that there is probably nothing there.
yes.
Yeah as i said. With those faults, the adaptations won't work properly.
All these are at zero.
And that fuel adaptation is 0,01 and other zero. Interesting.
Well lets not look at these now.
Please wake up now.
And that ticking you heard is caused by that missing crank or cam signal, because in that case the engine doesn't anymore run in sequential mode.
So that ticking is caused by the injectors. When we have those signals working it should then go away.
So that will go way also.
But still nothing.
Well now! Raising quite a bit.
oh..
well....
Bank1 seems to be at...
It's oscillating around 12%
It needs to enrich the mixture by 12% to make it run 14.7 AFR. Which is quite alot.
So there might be vacuum leak somewhere still. Or not..
The bank 2 seems to be at..
This is not bad. It's oscillating around 3%
Which is ok, but bank 2 is not.
What those do if i give some revs.
It's not perfectly ok. The MAF might be bit tired or the sensor itself.
Well this also explains why the engine doesn't work well because it needs to fix the AFR by using the lambda integrator.
But well...
Maybe I double check the intake boot and at least clean the MAF sensor.
Then I wan't to check the sensors using oscilloscope.
The intake boot seems to be 100% intact. No problems in that.
Then some cleaner for the MAF.
Like that.
So as I said, I wan't to check the sensors using oscilloscope before I start swapping out expensive sensors.
For that I have bought this 30€ scope from china. It has horrible bandwidth but still it should be enough for car use.
You can buy these as kits that you assemble by yourself as i did.
But if that is not your thing, you can also buy these assembled, if you pay little bit more.
First i wanted to check how the crankshaft sensor signal looks like by disassembling the ecu connector and plugging the scope to the crank sensor wires.
The sensor is regular 5v hall sensor which should put out 0-5v square wave signal.
And that's how it looks like.
The rising edge is bit rounded but that's should be problem at all.
When I zoom out, I can clearly see the 58 pulses and two missing ones as I should.
No missing pulses or any other strange thing.
I would say that it's ok.
Then the camshaft sensor which I thought is also hall sensor.
But no..
I could only see that sine wave.
After bit of googling, it turns out that the m52 ecu puts out 120khz signal to the sensor.
The sensor itself has two coils inside.
The ecu then "listens" the returning signal from the other coil, which should have phase shift every time when the "half moon" steel plate on the cam meets the sensor or not.
When I zoom out, that seems to be happening.
The signal may look strange because the poor resolution screen does some aliasing for the signal.
But you can clearly see change in the signal in the time that crank rotates over once.
So all fine...
Unfortunately I didn't record that the returning signal had much lower amplitude than the output signal.
Which might tell about shitty sensor. But I'm not sure.
Yeah as i said, it looked like that the both sensors have good enough signal. Nothing is clearly broken.
Cam signal may not be ok, but no clear fault in that either.
I had these boxes laying around so I tried this one here.
And even third one.
But that didn't help.
So maybe it's really the camshaft sensor that is broken.
So we will now swap the sensor because these different ecu's didn't help.
The camshaft position sensor is here behind the vanos solenoid.
I theory that is easy to swap. Just remove sensor, unplug wire. Plug in new one and screw that in.
Firstly the vanos solenoid is in the way. Which is easy to take of.
But the connector is back there under the intake. And you can barely fit your hand there.
You have to be pretty good gynecologic to fit your hand to that small and slimy pathway.
But lets try.
These ms41 ecus are extremely sensitive for the quality of the sensors.
So I would recommend only using OEM sensors.
This one cost about 100€ but it's orginal bmw part.
And with this we can make sure if the sensor is faulty or not.
So this needs to go in.
Lets start by taking this off.
It's stuck.
Unplug the wire for vanos solenoid.
Well that's tight.
Fucking hell.
Why the fuck someone had to tighten like that.
Little bit oil coming out here.
But I don't care.
I will take the oil filter cap off for more room.
I would need to take this off anyway, to fit my hand to the connector.
oh!
Well that's one nasty looking oil filter.
It seems I need to change the oil and filter also.
Can you see this. This is totally crushed and even cracked there.
Now we are talking.
Don't ever tighten the solenoid like this.
If this leaks, just replace the seal.
And now I need those gynecologic skills.
To unplug that connector.
yeah that's now off.
Well even the receipt said that they had replaced the camshaft sensor with now OEM unit.
But does this look like it.
This is the new OEM one. It says siemens, and BMW and has BMW part number.
And also the siemens part number with BMW logo.
But nothing on the sensor which was in the car.
Then when we look at here.
it says delphi here.
So OEM sensor in my ass.
Even the casing is fragile
So probably this is why it doesn't work.
Quite rude to make customer to pay for OEM sensor and then install some cheapest aftermarket part you get.
So now the seal is in the new sensor so we can install this.
Yeah. That was the cam sensor replacement.
After that I did change the ruined oil filter to new one and of course changed the oil also.
Just some cheap oil. Nothing special.
But I think everyone knows how to change the oil itself so no more about that.
And now when the oil has been changed it's nice to reset the service lights.
Which can be done easily just by using wire. Hopefully you can see, because I don't have any extra lights.
It's done by connecting the other end to pin 7 in the round diagnostic connector. Other end to ground.
When grounding for 3 sec resets the oil change and grounding it 12 seconds resets the inspection.
I recommend using stopwatch to make sure you ground the wire for right time.
And now the oil service should have been reseted.
And it's simple as that.
you may need to try the 12 and 3 second groundings several times, you those service lights are not have been reseted for a while.
But try several times to get the green service lights back.
But really simple thing to do.
After changing the cam sensor, there was still the fault in cylinder 4 coil. I did change that to one that I had taken off from some other car.
The coil replacement is so simple that I wont show the whole process.
But after swapping in the "new" coil, the engine worked well for some time.
But it then started stumble again.
That time the ecu complained about cylinder 3 coil which I changed also.
And after that the engine has run really well without fault codes.
So last thing to do fore the engine is the gas pedal.
And now we are going to swap the gas pedal.
I have here brand new OEM gas pedal.
But first I need to take off the old one.
I need to first open this clip back here.
And the I need to pry it out. Sometimes it really sucks to get that out.
But lets try.
yeah!
This needs to be correct spot to come out.
Like that.
And then new goes back in.
It's now installed.
And feels good.
But yeah. This part will be too long if I would fit the power steering pump replacement and fixing the airbag light also.
So I will make third part for those even when I first planned to do only two parts.
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