welcome to another Lightblade Learning Lab in a fairly recent session I attempted to
give you all the knowledge I had about photo engraving now I've since
been able to learn a little bit more and rationalize all that I've learned into a
fairly simple set of instructions now there are some calculations in there but
nothing difficult and what I'm going to do today is to summarize in just this
one simple session how to go about producing excellent quality photo engravings
these are basic rules and they will guarantee to get you good quality product
but you might decide to veer away from those rules and experiment for yourself
that's your choice I'm only giving you the foundation upon which you can build now
to go along with this session we have a two-page document here which summarizes
all the steps that I'm going to demonstrate to you today so in
conjunction with some of the fiddly details that I'm going to show you on
the video you can go through the basic steps here with this document that will
be published on the Thinklaser website now today's session
we'll start right at the beginning and we're going to do every step of the
process but in future you won't need to carry out every single step of this
process only some of the steps because once you've gathered the information
today it will be valid for the future step number one is to choose the lens
that you're going to use now the one thing that you will find about doing
engraving work
is that the nozzle will tend to get sticky around the outside because of the
way in which the fumes will come upwards and stick to the outside of the nozzle
so from time to time you'll need to inspect the nozzle and maybe clean it
with some acetone now before you do that you might want to check that you've got
a nice clean hole in the end of your nozzle and you can do that with a two
and a half millimeter drill literally just make sure the nozzle is clear and
then we'll just clean the outside of the nozzle there now the inside does tend to
get a bit fogged and messed up but it's not essential to get in there to clean
it although from time to time I do just to take the debris off the inside of the
nozzle as well your Thinklaser machine will be supplied with three lenses it has a 2
inch lens which to be honest is normally a very good quality meniscus lens now if
when you look in there you'll see that it's a greeny color and if you hold it
up to the light you will not be able to see through the lens and that's because
it's made of a material called gallium arsenide now most lenses that you can
get the cheaper lenses are made from something called zinc selenide which
work perfectly well this is a good quality lens and the meniscus lens helps
to focus the light down to a slightly sharper point so
whatever lanes you're using and I would normally recommend for engraving work
the use of one a half-inch lens but sadly this system does not allow you to
use a one and a half inch lens a two inch lens will be perfectly okay you're
pretty able to produce perfectly good results with a two inch lens but you
would get slightly better results with a one and a half inch lens and if we get
time I have got an adaption for this system which will allow me to put one
and a half inch lens in here and we'll see what the difference in the quality
of the pictures are and I think you'll see that there isn't a huge difference
so step number one Choose your lens and make sure it's in good working order clean
and the next thing is to make sure it's correctly focused now I've shown you
this photo engraving of one of my old girlfriends on previous occasion it is
almost the perfect formula but not quite now as
I've mentioned before this binary picture is composed of just dots there
is a white background and dark dots now it looks as though we've got lots of
different shades of dots in that picture not true
they are literally one color dot but it's the mixing of the white background
with the different densities of those dark dots that creates this impression
of a grayscale now that's a very very important thing to remember the white
background is very important if you make the dots too big or you overlap the dots
because you try and make the picture too higher-resolution your eye will not be
able to sort out a white background it will just have a series of dark dots and
so the grayscale effect that you're looking for
disappears today is all about the rules for getting the features of this picture
correct the dots the size of the dots the power of the dots and the resolution
of the picture that you start with now with a card which is what this is or
leather a natural leather maybe a piece of MDF and all those sorts of
materials wood they're all what I call organic materials they will burn and
they will burn with a brown mark which is great because Brown is quite a dark
mark so we can have a dark dot on a white background which is exactly what
we want to get the good quality picture
now when it comes to what I call mineral materials slate stone granite or
plastics like maybe clear acrylic the situation is different we do not get
black dots we get a black background or a clear background with in the case of
acrylic but we get white dots now that means to say that the picture has to be
converted into a negative before you print it so something else that we're
going to talk about along the way for the purpose of this exercise I'm going
to be using a white card it's about one millimeter thick and to be honest I
think it's the sort of card fairly soft card that you probably would make beer
mats of it's not high quality but it's nice and soft so it's actually very good for
doing pictures on and it's not expensive to buy
now it is important that you use a piece of the material that you're going to
work on to do these settings because what we're going to do now is find not
only the focus but we're also going to find the size of the dot and to do that
we need to be working on the correct material because different materials
will produce different size dots
okay now my focus gauges are basically this one is millimeters and this is 0.5
of millimeter so for instance this one runs from I think one to 20 and this one
runs from 1.5 to twenty point five because I've added an extra half a
millimeter onto the bottom so they're very simple gauges to make
and what we're going to do is we're going to lift this up
and we're gonna drop it down initially onto the 8-millimeter step
we're going to run my test program and that's it that's all the program is so
this is seven point five just drop it down on to seven point five now I'm
going to do a manual inspection on these using this device here now this is
something called a linen gauge and it's a very handy device that you will
probably need to measure these and to look at these with now this is easily
available on you get it off eBay for about five pounds for a plastic version ten
times magnification which is absolutely super for doing this job so I put all
the details in my separate write-up. No for 6.0
not really for 6.5, 7.0 looks a lovely clean set of holes with dots, 7.5 not bad but
in general I would think I've got a crisper set of holes at 7.0 & 8.0 that's not
particularly brilliant either but we'll see those under the microscope and
you'll see what I mean now this little pattern is very carefully designed to
tell you all sorts of things the first thing it will do it will enable you
to estimate the size of the dot and I would say that we are looking at dots
that are probably 0.2 diameter and I'll explain more about that when we see
them under the microscope now before I try and describe what we're seeing under
the microscope let's just take a look at the pattern that I laid down as the
basis of the test what we've got here is a set of pixels these are very carefully
sized each one of these pixels or spaces on the bottom line is 0.1 of a
millimeter let's take the bottom line for example if I see a dot then a space
then a dot and the space is the same size as the dot then I can estimate
that I've got 0.1 millimeter dots now if the dots touch on that
bottom row then it can only be because the dots are 0.2 diameter now we can
apply the same principle to the next two rows of dots so if I get point two dots
there will be a dot a space a dot a space a dot a space and the space
between the dots should be the same size as the dots themselves so that will tell
me that I've got 0.2 dots and then obviously if the dots are touching then
it means those dots are point four diameter and of course between the point
two and the point 4 we can estimate a 0.3 dot. so i don't expect anybody
to be using point 4 dots but if you've got your focus badly set you may well
find that you've got 0.4 dots now the purpose of the top line with those
dashes on it there's nothing to do with sizing the dots that's all to do with
assessing what power we're going to use to do the picture and that will become
obvious as we do the next test later on now this bitmap pattern will be
available on the Thinklaser website but you'll have to put your own
parameters to it and what I suggest you do is to run this at fairly low values
first of all I would set the speed at about 50 millimeters a second we've
talked quite a bit about high frequency impact engraving and how there is this
strange pre ionization zone on your tube before it really kicks in and starts
developing power most engraving really needs to be done at low power and this
particular zone up to on most tubes it could be 12 could be 14% you will need
to test your own tube to find out where the limit for that zone is and I would
stay inside that zone if you possibly can because you will get much better
results on both my machines I can safely say 11 or 12 percent stays inside that
zone so I'm going to set this to say 12 percent we need to make sure that we've
got none of this stuff here ticked we're just going to use standard x-swing but
bear in mind what I told you was that the size of these dots is 0.1
millimeters therefore that's what we're going to be using for a pitch 0.1
so let's go and have a look at the results that we got right we're
gonna check out the test pattern for our 2 inch focal length lens now the first
thing we did was to set the gap underneath the nozzle to 6 millimeters
and here's what we got now our first two lines at the bottom here ah hmm
well they're not really two lines are they they're a bit of a blur you
certainly can't see any dots so let's move to six point five and all of a
sudden we can see some dots that's half a millimeter difference in the focus
makes a significant difference so let's step up to seven millimeters and here we
are we can see definite dots now please excuse me I've got no idea what these
funny s-shaped things are here they're supposed to be single pixels like the
line above but they're not and my suspicion is that I've got two pixels
overlaid on top of each other and I've got a scan left and a scan right which
is shown up there so I'm gonna have to go and check my pixel pattern out before
I release it to you guys it doesn't make any difference because what we're trying
to establish is the quality of the dots on those bottom two lines and if I show
you the seven millimeter at the bottom here and the 7.5 at the top they're
fairly similar but if you look closely at the 7.5 ones and compare them to the
7 millimeter ones you'll find that the 7.5 are slightly bigger dots you know
it's only a very slight subtle difference but that's what you're
looking for there's only half a millimeter difference in these focal
distances and that is obviously quite critical even on a 2-inch lens which is
what we've got in here where the focal depth is supposed to be more tolerant
this demonstrates just how critical you need to be with your settings so we're
going to settle with the 7 millimeter and we'll concentrate on that now
because what we've got to do is to establish the size of the dot what from
that pattern yeah well it's not too bad because remember I described to you that
here we've got these little black dots and they're definitely all touching
there's no gap gap gap so if you had a dot gap gap then you could say well I've
got point 1 dots that was the pitch of those along the bottom line there and we
can confirm that we've actually got point 2 dots because remember what I
said about the second pattern up if we get a dot a space a dot a space and
those dots and spaces look approximately the same then we've got point two dots
well we've got two important pieces of information off that test this is
critical knowing what the dot size is and the second thing is to make sure you
get the focus set dead right because if you don't get the focus dead right then
you'll finish up with the dot that's even bigger than that so what we tried
to do when we look down this pattern here is to find the smallest crispest
dots and that tells us where the correct focus point is now before we move off of
our focal distance here I will just mention again something that I nearly
forgot and that is the fact that in addition to a two inch lens this machine
is also supplied with a two and a half and a 4 inch lens now I would honestly
suggest you do not try and use either of those lenses for this sort of work
now the only time you'd want to probably use something like that is if you're a
little bit on the I won't say desperate side but there's no other solution is if
you've got an object like this that you're trying to engrave a picture onto
and it's got a curved surface you'll need to make sure that as you scan
backwards and forwards along that curved surface you don't get too much change in
the quality of the picture and a 4-inch lens has got a much longer a depth of
focus on it so yeah it may have a use it will also be a much coarser picture now
I'm using the word coarse there but what I really mean there's less pixels per
inch because the dot size will be bigger
every picture has got an inherent resolution in it if it's a bitmap or a
photograph and if you check out what that is it will always tell you that it
is pixels per inch PPI now this machine and we've already started doing it works
in millimeters if we look over here we've already decided that the dot size
is 0.2 of a millimeter so somewhere along the way we've got to
define what resolution we can use that point 2.dot for, so there are twenty five point
four millimeters in one inch okay now these are pixels per inch so there is
twenty five point four millimeters now if we divide that twenty five point four
by 0.2
which is the size of our pixel dot we've got to make sure that our pixel is the
same size as our dot and that will give us an answer of 127
pixels per inch so that's the resolution of the picture
that we can work with anything more than that resolution and our dots will start
to overlap and if we overlap the dots you remember we're going to finish up
with double burns here we've got a picture at 127 dots per inch and if we
draw a pattern and we've got the correct ratio of black
to white in that set of pixels so here we've got some dots at 300 pixels per
inch and of course what happens if I've got my point two dots and what will
happen is the point two dots will do that and all the gaps that you'd planned
to have will disappear and all these will overlap and double burn so you know
this is going to be a complete mess so I urge you do not mess with this number
that's what the equation says you should use use it so let's go and have a look
now putting our picture into RDWorks and setting this magic number okay so
there's my picture imported into RDWorks and you'll recognize this picture
is something that we have used before I'm going to put the bitmap handle around
it and just take a look at what its properties are so at the moment it
clearly tells me at the top here at 600 pixels per inch which is fine now while
I'm in here I'm going to put these to zero just put some new handles around
that and up here we can see that we've got a picture size of a hundred and one
millimeters now I've already put the padlock on so that the proportions
remain the same because I want the horizontal dimension to go up to a4 size
which is 297 and there we go now if I put the bitmap handle on again you will
see something else has happened it was 600 pixels per inch remember well we've
now changed the size of the picture and an RDWorks has actually rescaled it for
us to a different resolution now remember just a few moments ago we
established at the best resolution that we could ever work with was 127 pixels
per inch well first of all just make sure that these two are set to 0
forget the invert we're not going to be using a mineral material we're going to be using
an organic material we're going to set the output resolution to what we found
we had to set it to 127 pixels per inch okay so we can say apply to
view but now what we're going to do we are going to dither the picture and we're going
to dither the picture with dot graphics and now we shall say apply to view and
there we go we can see we've got all sorts of dots in there and now we've got
this in dot form we can see how the picture is going to change now this is
where you need some skill some experience some luck because you've got
to basically distort this picture slightly to get a good quality result
onto your page it won't come out quite like this so what we're going to do is
we're gonna take the brightness up to start with because almost certainly we
shall need a brighter picture but go up in five percent steps or there abouts
4.2 and apply to view not much difference let's have ten percent well
you can see that we're bringing in some of the hairs in the background here
we're getting a bit more of the background coming forward but it's a
little bit washed out so we need to crisp it up with contrast so again we'll
go up in five percent steps apply to view five percent step again
ten percent
and maybe one more 15% now this piece of software is very very limited in its
ability to play with the picture and sometimes you need to work on this
picture in a piece of external software before you bring it in
but I'm not going to do that today we're going to stay here we'll try and make
the best of a bad job here so let's take the the brightness up again I don't
think we can get a great deal better than that we've got quite a crisp eye
there as you can see this eye is not bad either so we can apply that to the view
which we've already done and then we'll apply it to the source we need to click
on here and there we go so you see that picture now tends to pop out at you it's
got more brightness in it and we can see more of these hairs in the background if
you were going to put this picture onto acrylic or some mineral material what
you would do you would go back into the bitmap handle once you're happy with the
picture and you can see it on your screen looking good you can go back in
there and you could you cannot any longer play with the contrast and the
brightness they're fixed you could possibly reset the resolution if you
wanted to but we're not going to but you do get the opportunity to go back and
invert apply to view and there we go now there is absolutely no way that you'd be
able to work on this picture in a negative form unless you've got some
sort of perverted brain so you don't actually convert to an inverted form
until the very last minute so now and we've got to set the parameters well we
know that it's going to be a scan and we're not going to be blowing we'll try
11% and see what happens now we want nothing ticked down here at all we're
going to leave it with X swing which means it's going to scan in both
directions and this time the interval we know what the interval is
because we determined that when we said the dot size was naught point two of a
millimeter so that's what we set the resolution
into the picture to one to seven which is equivalent to point two so we know
what the interval is the only thing that we don't know at the moment is what
speed we're going to run at and this is quite a critical factor this is one of
the secrets that I have discovered I know from work that I've recently done
that it takes three milliseconds or somewhere in that sort of region for a
single pixel to reach its full power now if you want to push the power up to 20
30 40 50 percent it may well take longer but I know that when we're using dots
we're working right down at very low powers and at low power 3 milliseconds
is an adequate amount of time to allow a single pixel to form properly the next
thing is we've already determined that our dot size is 0.2 of a
millimeter so there's 1 millimeter and therefore we have 5 pixels in every
millimeter now that's quite important because we're now going to take 3
milliseconds for a pixel to form times 5 pixels per millimeter and the net result
is it's going to take 15 milliseconds for a millimetres worth of pixels the
speed of the machine is set as millimeters per second and so therefore
if we take one second and one second is equivalent to a thousand milliseconds
and we take that thousand milliseconds and we find out how many 15 milli second
intervals or how many millimeters there are what it amounts to is 67 and so we
set the speed to 67 millimeters per second so we now go in and do that and
we set the speed to 67 that's not something we can change
okay so there's all the parameters set we should now save this and go back to
the machine I've got my head set down at the bottom right hand corner if you
remember and so we'll just set the origin there and do a frame check
now this is going to take a long time to do so
we should come back and see it
and there we go I think you can probably see the effectiveness of the cross flow
there you can see the smoke being drawn away
if you look very closely you can see dots but when we pull away
I think he'll agree that's a pretty good photo rendition
now that's what you can expect by being careful but doing it slowly
I also think you'll see there's a significant improvement between what we
were trying to do about six weeks ago
and that there is no comparison I was scrabbling
around in the dark when I was doing that
that took about 40 minutes to produce that picture
and I'm sure you'll agree it's been worth it we can see all sorts of detail
on the hairs out here you can see all these little teeny-weeny hairs on his
beard down here we can even see these rings
you know there is a huge amount of detail in there that was not evident on
the original when we first looked at it look we can see the sword in the
background that's been pulled out so now I'm just going to remove the 2-inch lens
and replace it with a one and a half inch lens
there's our 2" lens and this was a 4" lens where I've taken the lens
the 4" lens out of the back of the tube and in the front of the tube here
I've put an O ring and I've modified the inside of the nozzle itself now that
allows me to pop a smaller this is normally a 20 millimeter lens system
here I've got an 18 millimeter diameter one and a half inch focal length lens
now we always put it flat side down and on top of that I'll put a small
compression tube and by the time I screw that in there against the o-ring
it's completely solid just very lightly clamped okay so now we've got a 1.5
inch length in here but I stress again this is not something that's standard
and available from Thinklaser this is something that I've designed and made
myself we're going to use the same paper but we've got to go through exactly the
same exercise because we've changed the focal lengths and we don't know what
size the dot is that we're going to produce and we don't know exactly what
the focal length is so we need to prove it while we're here at the moment what I
want to do is just point out to you the fact that I have got a mild steel plate
sitting on top of the bars and this mild sheet steel sheet is approximately level
with the frame of the page there's a good reason why I like using this steel
plate first of all as you can see I can put magnets on it
secondly it does not allow the air to pass down through it it blocks off the
air that would normally pass through either the bars or the honeycomb table
that you have on the top here and in this particular instance what will
happen is the air passes across the top of the table like this to those holes at
the back there now that produce a cross flow which is
absolutely essential in my opinion when you are engraving because you don't want
the air to go that I mean let's face it if this is the size of the picture and
that's the size of the open area around it there's more open area than there is
picture so what will happen is you'll get most of your air just disappearing
straight down there and it have no cleaning or purging effects on the top
surface of this this graphic that we're going to work with so I always make sure
that I get a cross flow a very high speed cross flow to pull the fumes
backwards and the other thing that I do and I
mentioned it before is that we set the set the graphic start point down here so
that when we engrave we shall be engraving backwards and forwards like
this in gradually moving towards the back of the machine and that means that
all the smoke that's generated during the engraving process is being pulled
backwards now it tends to come up in the air before it goes backwards so very
little of it as ever going to reach this clean paper here but just in case it
does by going backwards it means that we're going to not get any of that
debris painting our picture we're going to leave the picture that we're
producing in a nice clean smoke-free environment now this steel plate is not
something that is standard on the Thinklaser machine you're gonna have to make
this for yourself don't get any plated material just plain raw mild steel if it
goes a little bit rusty or a little bit messy picking up fumes and condensation
particularly if you're doing MDF you can get horrible Brown mucky stuff on the
surface there so acetone will clean it off and if it goes rusty then all you
need is an industrial cleaning pad and this abrasive pad will keep your table
nice and clean so we think this is seven and a half mil
so what I'm going to do I'm going to start eight and a half and we'll work
our way for a millimeter above and a millimeter below the ideal setting point
now I will inspect these mmm and then we can look at them under the microscope
there's better separation between 7:00 than there is between the 7.5
so in fact I'm going to award that one
the prize seven millimetre and now we're going to
estimate the dot size now this is going to be interesting
that's my estimate for that one 0.15 so they're slightly
smaller which means we've got to go back and we've got to revise the picture
because we've got to reset the pixels per inch we could run the same picture
but I don't want to do that because the rules are the rules
so I've redrawn the picture so that it's got an interval 0.15 and a resolution of
170 pixels per inch now what we got to do is calculate the speed which I can
modify here on the machine the key thing is three milliseconds is the time that
we're working with for a single dot this time we've got one millimeter and in one
millimeter we're going to divide that by 0.15 and that equals 6.7 pixels per
millimeter we've got this magic number of three milliseconds that applies
regardless of the number of pixels per inch that's just a fixed constant
consequently we're gonna have to multiply the three milliseconds
by the number of pixels per millimeter so that tells us it's going to take 20
milliseconds to do a millimeters worth of pixels remember our speed as
millimeters per second so in one second we have a thousand milliseconds and
we're going to divide that thousand milliseconds by 20 that's going to
generate a speed of 50 millimeters a second higher resolution lower speed so
we've now got to set the speed to 50 millimeters a second because we've
reduced the speed the chances are that we shall probably have to reduce the
power as well at the moment the power is set to 12% so now we've got to go back
to our test pattern again
now I'm sure it's pretty obvious to you that 10% is so much lighter than the 11%
there's a huge difference there between those two but there isn't a huge
difference between 11 12 and 13 in terms of color but there probably is in terms
of depth of pixel so what we've got to do now is very carefully look to see
whether or not we're going to use 11 or 12 now that's one of the reasons why
when we look at this pattern you'll see there's a load of bars across the top
they are multiple pixels and they will help us to decide whether or not we
should choose 11 or 12 is 12 burning too deep relative to a single pixel or is 11
a more balanced view between one pixel and a group of pixels and that's an
assessment that we've got to try and make
but I think I'm gonna settle on 12%
because 13% the dots are getting just a little bit bigger the color difference
is not huge so I think we'll settle on 12%
so 12% and 50 millimeters a second those are the settings
we were very pleased with the quality of picture produced by the two-inch lens
let me show you what happens with a one and a half inches
it's quite staggering I have to say I did not think it would be as big a
difference as that now part of the advantage of this is the fact it's got a
deeper color to it and when you think about it the reason for the deeper color
is because although I've reduced the power very slightly
the energy density in the lens is twice as much as it is in this lens so I've
got a much sharper hit but look at the clarity of some of this stuff down here
this is the same picture by the way I haven't messed with the tonal range of
the picture it's exactly the same picture as this one the only difference
is the fact that it's done with the 2-inch lens and probably the the color
difference between the two is because we've got a higher power density in each
one of these dots okay so I was slightly wrong again there
is a big difference between a one and a half inch and a 2 inch lens
but the whole purpose of today's project was to demonstrate that there is a
formula that you can follow to get a good quality photo engraving I'm
extremely pleased at the results we got today the 2-inch lens was exactly what I
expected it to be it was a good quality rendition of the original but when we
compare it to the one and a half inch lens where we get a really good deep
contrasting picture because we're able to get a much deeper burn it does show
you the value of having the right material in the background and the right
concentration of energy I think we've got much higher energy densities here
that's able to produce this burn without actually etching away the material if
you start overlapping your dots you get a 3d feel to your picture and there are
no 3d feels to either of these pictures so I know that my dot quality is good
these are exactly the same picture these are exactly the same cards these are
done as it happens and exactly the same power this one was done at 12% this one
was done at 12% I think this one was done at 67 millimeters a second and this
one was done at 50 millimeters a second this is lower energy density and faster
which maybe accounts for why it's slightly more washed out now I'm not
trying to put Thinklaser into a tight corner or anything like that but I think
that you can see from these results that the difference between the 2" lens
and the 1.5" inch lens which is not available as standard is
quite staggeringly different now without anything to compare it with this is
still quite a nice photograph but this one here is something a bit special this
is almost a perfect sepia photograph so we've succeeded in our aim there is a
formula which will guarantee that you get almost the perfect photo engraving I
think that in a future session we ought to take this a little bit further and go
into mineral materials such as glass slate and maybe into plastics like
acrylic which are things that people tend to use a lot of so whether we use the
same picture which might be a good comparison to see just how we get on
with this picture within different materials we'll have to see but thank
you very much for your time today and I'll see you in the next session
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét