Could this be the quintessential desert island?
We walk around the village, poke our nose in people's houses
Quite a reasonable amount of life actually, and some very pretty colors down there.
We thought we might as well turn the engine off
As you may be able to hear it's a Friday, and of course all the men and many of
the boys are down the mosque. You can see behind me the young boys here, clearly
not very interested in the sermon more occupied by the fact there's a camera
pointing at them. But of course they're very friendly and looking very smart
in their Friday lunchtime attire.
This is our second day in the village of Palma.. Palmen... Palmanak?
One thing that occurred to me whilst we've
been at anchor for the last few days, one of the things we've had to put up with
is that every single boat that comes into the bay
has to come via our boat. Last night we had, I think they were probably the
fishermen that have moored up outside the end of the bay, and they came past
when it was after dark and just screamed at us didn't they? Yeah those shouting
shouting, and they came really close and I think the last one I remember was 20
to 1:00 in the morning. Yes but then to be honest it's a fair trade you know
we're a bit of a spectacle being anchored out in the bay, as we come around
the corner we can see her now sitting there. And it's a source of amusement for
the locals. But of course you can turn that on its head because we come ashore
and now it's our turn. We walk around the village, poke our nose in people's
houses and stick cameras at people! So in that respect it's I think it's you know,
we can't complain. Can't really no. It got a little bit annoying because we don't
make quite as much noise as their engines do!
It's a little bit windy out here, but I've just walked down a little
passageway to... I suppose it's the front of someone's house. It's a rather
splendid house actually, two-story and solid looking, and out the back he has
his own little jetty which is just here. And what looks like, and I'm sure it
isn't, but it looks like a volleyball court out the back! But we should mention
that it seems that volleyball is a very popular sport here in Indonesia and
we've seen quite a few people playing it on the beaches. And what else do we have
here? On the floor here it's covered in - rather than shingle and stones, it's all
broken coral. They've lined their pathway with coral. They have coconut
husks drying out in the sun here, which of course among many things can be used
to get rid of mosquitoes at night. It's very slow burning and is a very
good way of getting rid of pesky pests like that.
And this is the house itself.
We're at the coffee shop, and I've just been volunteered to try some therapy.
It's supposed to be good for the circulation, so we're just gonna have a go now.
Hot? [Yes.] So I put this on my skin? [Yeah it's cool...]
So rub this on my skin? [Yes] Like this? [No, no!] Laughter.
You do it for me!
Ohhh, it's heating up.
He's adding water to it. It's heating up. I can feel the heat on my hands.
I think it might be caustic soda!
Very good. I feel very healthy now! [Yes]
It is now time to leave the island of Mubur, and the little village of Palamak
where we say goodbye to our friends. We have 80 meters of chain down, we're
currently in 26 meters of water, so I think this is going to take a little bit of
time to get the chain up. So nice and slowly does it. We've got a nice fresh
breeze coming in from the south-southwest but where we're going is
literally just in between these two islands and we have a local
recommendation. One of the guys we chatted to yesterday from the village
recommended a little anchorage. We're not sure why, but we thought we'd just go and
have a quick look it's not too far away might be able to get the headsail out
just to sail up the channel. But first things first, let's see if we can get
this anchor up.
Are there any chain markers at 70? Yeah. I've got the 70 and the 60 in.
We've motored out of "The Fjord" and around the corner. Had a little bit of current
against us. We're now running parallel to the Fjord on the east side.
This is a channel that takes us between two islands, and we thought well we might as
well turn the engine off.
So this is the Salat Matak straight, and we're actually quite lucky because
we've got current pushing us through because there's no wind, last time I
checked it was 1.2 knots of wind. We've got the foresail out, and the mizzen
out, and we're making three knots. It's OK. It's very beautiful here,
absolutely beautiful. Quite narrow. We've got villages on either side. A little bit
of activity in the water. Just enjoying the silence actually. Apart from that boat.
Cleaning the oceans one bit of plastic at a time!
I caught one before and she wouldn't eat it. Liz has literally just put the rod in the water and immediately...
Look at that! Look at how that rod's bending! [Laughs] I think it's a (can't remember what they're called) Ramore?
You know, they live under boats? ["That's r'Amore"] Someone's excited.
I don't want to bring it on board. We don't need it. They're not very nice to eat.
She wouldn't even eat the last one I caught.
Could this be the quintessential desert island?
This is Tingileh Island, and if this doesn't float your boat, the next place
is going to be this one over here!
I've just been snorkeling on the reef here. Shallows it's quite dead, most of
its dead. There's a bit of life in there, not too much. Then as you go out and you
hit the reef proper, then it all comes to life. There's brain coral, stag horn coral.
There's urchins, a lot of fish. And then a big drop-off with
a load more coral. I saw some fan coral. Quite a reasonable amount of life, actually.
and some very pretty colors down there.
Well this stop's been a bit of a nature stop. Our last anchorage was more about
the people on the land, and the stilted houses. Whereas this one around
the corner has just been about nature. Just this morning, waking up to
the dawn chorus of these tropical birds and you've got the terns flying around
diving into the water trying to find fish. Just so peaceful and relaxing.
We are probably going to move on now. I think. Just because we don't have great
weather, and the coral around here isn't brilliant. Don't get me wrong. In
perspective it's still pretty impressive, but there's quite a bit of dead coral
Just here is a reef, we've anchored quite close to it but we've been OK. And we
have to send off an important email. That's one of the problems here.
Internet connection is non-existent, and we have to get this email sent so
we're just going to go for a little motor back around the bay that we came
into a couple of days ago, and Liz is going to send that email. We've got the
water-maker running, making a bit more water. And then we're just going to probably sail.
Hopefully. Just a few miles around the north part of the islands
here. And there's little anchorage just around the other side.
Unfortunately the weather today's a little bit overcast, but of course as always it
keeps the temperature down, which is quite nice.
Technology eh? This is us trying to send an important email. It is an important
email, and it has to be done now. So we've left the anchorage, and we've motored
back down towards the little airport here, where we remembered the other day that
we got a connection. So I'm now running a hot spot so that
Liz can do something on her laptop, which is playing up because...I dunno...
there's a bit of dirt in it or something. Anyway, we've sent the important email,
but she's now got to tend to some banking business because we know that
the next anchorage is going to have absolutely no connection at all, so need to get
this done now. Here we are, just bobbing around in the middle of the bay, clinging
on to this connection
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