Hey guys, I'm Kevin Tetz working with LMC Truck to bring you some technical
information and how-to videos that are
going to help you with your truck project.
In this video we're going to be
dealing with the brake system on a 67 - 72
GM truck and we'll show you how to
replace the existing steel lines with a
Stainless Steel pre-bent Brake Line Set.
Now all of these lines are pre-bent very
accurately to match the factory bends
and although it might look like a nest of snakes right now,
the process is quite simple and we're
going to walk you through it.
LMC Truck also offers brake hoses and
rear brake hoses for both leaf spring
and coil spring vehicles,
as well as all the hardware that you're gonna need to
mount your hard lines to the frame rail
and the chassis. Now although we're not
dealing with it in this video,
LMC Truck also offers wheel cylinders
and drum brake rebuilding components as
well as a Master Cylinder and we'll show
you proper installation techniques for a
master cylinder in this video as well.
Now the benefit of pre-bent brake lines
is pretty darn obvious right here.
This is a very difficult bend sequence to re-create.
Now pre-bent brake lines mean
all you have to do is go to LMCTruck.com
or your LMC Truck catalog, pick them out,
order them and they'll show up on your doorstep.
Now, let's talk about tools.
You're going to need basic hand tools, a combination
wrench set and some sockets and socket
wrenches, but this, this is necessary.
These are flare nut wrenches or line
wrenches and you need them to
effectively disconnect your brake lines
without tearing them up.
Some brake cleaning spray is nice to have around
and so is some penetrating oil for the
rusty frozen fasteners that you're
inevitably going to run into, as well as
you're going to need some brake fluid,
that's kind of obvious.
Here's something that you're going to
need if you're replacing a master
cylinder like we are.
This is a Master Cylinder Bleeding Kit.
You can pick these up at any auto parts
store and you've got to properly bleed
the air out of the master cylinder and we'll
show you how to do it. As far as safety
goes this is not a crazy dangerous
project, but you are working under the
truck, so have some safety glasses on
hand and get some gloves since you're
going to be handling brake fluid.
Now if you've just drug your truck out of
the field, some insect spray may come in
handy as well and here's another thing too.
Some water, just plain water will
neutralize the brake fluid in case you
spill it on paint. You can keep it from
eating the paint off your vehicle.
Now since brake fluid is going to leak out
some absorbing mats are easy to find at
the parts store and they'll come in
handy you can keep things clean and
environmentally friendly. A head light, as
goofy as it looks, is a really good idea
and keep your hands free to work while
you're underneath the dark vehicle.
Now the LMC Truck catalog is really nice to
have around because the illustrations
are so accurate, it can actually act as
an assembly guide. Now on a difficulty
scale, it's not that difficult, I'm gonna
give it a 3 1/2 out of 5
but you might want to set aside an
entire weekend to do it, so you can take
your time and methodically do things the right way.
Now let's take a look at the project.
Now between the obviously
leaking master cylinder with the
paint stripped off the firewall and the
spongy brake pedal that this truck has,
the master cylinder is done, it's on its way out.
[Lift sound]
Right here,
obviously we're missing a retaining clip
but right here, the brake hose is almost
worn through, and here again on the flexline
it's frayed and that's just dangerous.
The steel brake lines, they're rusty
and it's just too important and
they're too easy to replace,
so that's what we're going to do.
Like we said these lines are very accurately bent
so I just compare them to the lines
on the truck and it gives me a roadmap
to replace them one at a time.
I've laid them out here, it makes perfect sense.
Except for this guy, which is bent like
this for the purposes of shipping.
So here's how to bend it back straight
because it goes along the frame rail
without using any expensive tools.
What you want to do is put the bend focused
on the floor, so you're actually using the
floor for support.
Don't bend it like this, because you
could possibly kink the line. With a push
on the floor, just gently, slowly,
bend it back straight. Kind of using different
areas of the bend as support.
One more bend here.
Alright, so it's not perfectly straight
but it doesn't have to be, it's clamped
to the C channel frame rail, so now
we're ready for that piece to go in the truck.
One more thing LMC Truck also offers
junctions and unions. We've got one here
but we're going to try to re-use our
originals and show you how to do the same.
Now the back of the truck's the easiest to get to,
so we're going to start here and these are
just little tabs. Bend them back.
Alright, that's loose.
[Music & Ratcheting]
There you go.
[Music]
Clean this off so we can get a wrench on it.
We'll remove the line from the wheel cylinder,
that doesn't want to cooperate, boy!
These lines are rusted up.
OK, now you want to try and keep from tearing
up your brake lines, but right there that
shows us exactly why we need to replace them.
It's just rusted, it's just rusted.
Still gotta get this guy out of the wheel cylinder.
It's pretty easy right now,
and for some reason it's bone-dry.
Out of there.
Alrighty. Now this bolt right
here is just a retainer for the flexline
and the union and we're gonna remove it all.
We don't even have to disconnect those lines.
We can take it all off as one
unit since it's all getting replaced.
[Ratcheting]
That goes away and we're going to keep
the fastener where it belongs,
so we don't have to track it down later.
There's a clip right here that we're
going to get rid of, that holds the flexline
to the frame rail, and the new clip comes
through the brake hose.
Alright.
Now we can undo this guy, but since we're replacing
everything, I'm just going to try and cut it right here.
We can still use it as a
template if we need to, it's just gonna be
much easier, and that bothers me that
there's no fluid in the rear circuit.
No wonder this things breaks were goofy.
Now there's several of these clips that
connect the brake lines and the fuel
lines to the frame rail and they're easy to
remove, they're easy to get to.
You can re-use if you want to, or you can just get
new ones from LMC Truck.
Even though I've already pre-soaked this
with penetrating oil it's just hard to
move it. I think that's it!
Ah, I think we got it. No, it broke off.
The bolt actually twisted in half.
I don't care how it comes off, but it came off.
Point is, it's been rusting since 1971
so I guess it's earned its,
its stubbornness. Here's the union we
need to keep it but here's where your line
wrenches come in handy.
We want to keep the flats intact so we
can we re-use this piece, so your line
wrenches will do exactly that.
We're finally getting some, finally getting some
brake fluid out of the brake system.
There we go.
Alright now,
if you're breaking this project up into afternoons or days
on a weekend. Now might be a good time to
go ahead and replace what you just
pulled out. That's what we're gonna do.
We're gonna pre-assemble this "T" for the
rear axle right here, but before you
start putting stuff together, get use to doing this.
We've got some break cleaning spray.
Don't assume that there's nothing
in the lines, don't assume that just because
they're new, that they're perfect.
Something may have crawled up in there
or maybe debris from shipping.
[Air-blowing]
Blow them out, make sure they're good and clean.
That way you don't end up
troubleshooting a problem, that you don't
need to deal with.
A little bit of preventive maintenance.
This also,
[Air-blowing]
kind of puts the exclamation
point on the need for safety glasses too.
Protect your eyes.
Get that guy out of the way.
We know that this goes here.
I just want to make sure these are seated, I'm not even going to
really snug them until we get them
clocked in the right place, and by the
way never use Teflon ever on brake lines.
They're designed to be a press-fit
Teflon will seal the threads but it
won't seal the circuit.
Alright.
That goes there.
Yep, right over there.
What we're going to do is start these threads,
just to give us some stability and a little bit
of leverage, to put their lines in their
final place.
Good enough.
These are brass fittings, you kind of get one shot,
so you want to make sure the threads
are seated and started properly, so you don't strip them.
OK, there it is.
You start to thread it by hand and then you take
your line wrench.
I'm not going to fully tighten this
until I've got all the connections made,
but I am going to run it in which takes
awhile when you're doing one flat at a time.
Alright, that's good enough for now.
Now we can put this slowly and carefully
in behind the tabs.
[Music]
There it is.
Alright, snug right there.
[Music]
There.
Now, place our lines in there.
With everything kind of in a place you can
use the tabs as leverage to get everything
set where it needs to be.
There we go. There
[Music]
There.
[Music]
There.
[Music]
[Tapping] A little bit of love to the axle tabs.
[Tapping]
Alright, now we can tighten up our
union over here, work our way forward.
[Music]
I can give the lines a nice snug with my
flare nut wrench.
We'll check them again when we leave the
system, we'll just check for any fluid leaks.
We don't want to over-tighten them. There nice!
Now I've blown out my line, but I've got
the rubber cap back on it.
Protecting it just in case as I'm
feeding it in the frame rail I jam some
crud up into it,
and have to clean it out all over again.
Alright, that should be about it.
Alright so my hard lines coming through there,
I connect now to my flexline.
Alright now with that snug,
go up in there and I've got a clip that'll slide back there,
to lock that circuit right into place.
This is our retaining clip it's going to lock it in place.
It just gets tapped in.
[Tapping]
There it is. Now we're just going to
loosely bolt in our brake line retainer
and we're able to reuse one of the
original ones.
I'm going to just hand nut it.
We'll snug it down, we'll secure, ensure of the placement of the
rest of the lines.
Alright, since this retainer was rusty,
we're going to use one of the new ones
from LMC Truck.
[Ratcheting]
Alright, keep that a little bit loose, in case we need to move the lines around.
OK, underneath the crossmember of the truck
I'm up here and got my head light on
and even with the line wrenches I still
had to cut this line because a lot
these nuts are rounded off.
However we can still save the unions
and the T fittings and get everything out of here
and still retain the shape of the brake
lines that were pulling off, so we can
compare them to the ones that were
putting on. Now even the lines on the
junction up here is so hamburgered up
I can't even turn it with a pair of pliers,
so I'm just gonna cut them.
The ever alarming nearly dry brake circuit.
OK, now we can get rid of these old lines.
Out with the old
There's those guys. Now this is tight.
[Tapping]
There, okay.
There [Ratcheting]
We're going to keep that bolt, and so right now we're just going
to go ahead and replace our flexlines
with the copper washer on either side of
the banjo bolt.
We know it's in the right way when the nub
on the top, falls into the channel on the caliper.
There we go. Perfect.
Good gosh, there.
[Ratcheting]
That's going to weep from the caliper for a little bit.
Right now we're rescuing our
copper washers again but, I also want to make
sure that my banjo bolts are good and clean.
We've got a fluid passage right there,
brake fluid has to go through.
So we're good to go.
Set our banjo bolt in,
make sure our copper washer is in place. Use a little bit of brake cleaner,
and wipe the crust off of it,
because for some reason this side is a little bit more dirty.
Alright, perfect, it can go there, the way to connect that up
with the other line.
Give this is a snug for now. Now our truck is
rusty, there's no fresh paint anywhere but
if your restoration is fresh and you've
got brake fluid dripping down here could
eat the paint or even wrinkle the
powdercoat, so that's where water comes in.
This is just H2O and I'm literally
dousing it and rinsing the brake fluid
off with water. Water neutralizes the
brake fluid and will stop its corrosive
action right in it's tracks.
Now we're going to install the retaining
clips that weren't even here when we started.
[Tap] Just like that.
As we pulled the old lines
off the truck we compared them
to the new pre-bent stainless steel lines
and it made it very easy to choose which
ones to go back in and where to put them.
Just like the others we'll thread them in
a fingertip first and then come back and
snug them up later when it's all fit.
OK, we're going to reuse this original
union to complete our brake line circuits
and this is where the line wrenches will
save you parts and money.
Look at that. Thank You line wrench.
OK, this is our rear circuit going all
the way to the back.
This is the union we just borrowed and
it's going to the front, actually
transitions into the backside of the
master cylinder, so we just gotta get it
threaded by hand. There, and now this side.
Alright.
Maybe it'll thread in, maybe it won't. Sometimes,
sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you've got to
pre-bend the lines just a bit.
I think, we got lucky.
Alrighty. I'll tighten them up in a little bit.
So this is our new stainless line
that goes to the rear circuit and this
is where it connects to. This goes up to
the backside, the rear bowl of the master
cylinder, the dual reservoir.
This brass T-fitting is new from LMC Truck and it's
going to connect this line,
to the line that goes to the front caliper on the
driver's side, to this line here,
that goes up to the front reservoir on the
master cylinder, that we're replacing
that line as well, so we're going to put a
brass fitting in and replace the upper lines,
finger-tight into the brass T,
and connect driver's side caliper line.
Alright, now our T is in there.
This guy's ready, now we're ready for these
2 new lines that go up to the master. (Master Cylinder)
[Lowering truck]
There we go. OK, it's kinda what I
figured were bone dry in the back, but we've
still got some fluid in the front.
Just using a bulb extractor, getting my brake
fluid out. A turkey baster also works
for this. It's a cheap tool.
This is actually made for battery fluid,
so we know it's going to withstand the brake
fluid corrosiveness. Interestingly enough
our brake fluid is an interesting
brown color which means it's soaked with
water and needs changing anyway.
We got some brake fluid on the paint, so I'm
going to soak it with the water because we
don't want to damage this awesome paint job.
Alright, now we're gonna, oh yeah, there we go.
We're taking the Master Cylinder off,
because we're putting a new one on.
Alright, there's that.
[Music]
There.
Since we're here and they're unhooked at
the bottom, we'll get our portioning valve out of here too.
Give it a good inspection, clean it up.
So when replacing a master cylinder
you've always got to perform a bench bleed.
It's a pretty simple procedure, but it's
absolutely necessary. Basically what
you're doing is purging the air out of
the fluid passages, the master cylinder
itself, so that it pushes pure fluid and
not air bubbles into the brake circuits
front and rear. The Master Cylinder Bleed Kit
comes with several different
fittings and since they're plastic be very
careful tightening them in. You want to
make sure that you get an air tight fit,
but you don't want to strip the threads.
OK, I've got 2 hoses for the front and rear
reservoirs and the clip that's gonna hold the hoses in.
We go to the rear, go to the front,
we'll bring these guys around and connect
them to plastic fittings on the side,
and make sure there's no kinks.
Alright. Now there's a new seal on every
bottle of brake fluid. I like to use the
smaller bottles of brake fluid that way
if I don't use it all, it sits on the
shelf for two years and gets a bunch of
moisture in it. Doesn't cost me a whole
quart of fluid, I just use what I need.
So now use a flat screwdriver and
actuate the master cylinder just like
what happened if you push the brake
pedal inside the cab and right now it's
full of air.
You can see the bubbles. You can see the
fluid going back and forth between the
bowls and the reservoirs rather and the fittings.
The foam is what you don't want to see,
So if it starts to foam up like that
it's just a bunch of air bubbles so give
it a little bit of a break.
Let the foam dissipate.
The rear circuit reservoir, the back one
it's looking pretty good.
I don't see any bubbles but the front
we're still working.
OK I'm moving slower, works better and
I can see just a couple little more bubbles coming
up through that hose.
I'm not seeing any more bubbles.
Alright with our master cylinder fully bled it's
going to stay right here till were ready to install it.
We're going to re-use the original
proportioning valve for this truck.
Since we're not changing the brakes up, drum in
the rear, disc in the front.
The prop valve it's a big dumb animal
unless it's damaged, it'll probably still
work just fine, but we do want to clean a
little and give it a good inspection.
Here's what we're looking for. Now you want
to look down into where the fittings go,
the internal flare,
well it's brass, you don't want any
damage on that. Ours look good. The backsides
look good. So now we're going to give it
a quick shot with brake cleaner.
Important to wear glasses because this stuff can backfeed.
Yep OK, we're good here. I just want to
make sure all the fluid passages are clear,
and everything is hunky dory.
It's a happy.
One more thing, take my bleeder valve loose.
[Spraying fluid]
OK good, good we're back flushing and it's clear.
Oh, there you go.
[Spraying fluid]
Alright, now we're going to blow it out with some air then we're ready for reinstallation.
[Blowing air]
Alright, we'll throw our bleeder valve back in,
and while we're here, we're going to
install the lines.
There we are.
Here's a pre-bent line for the rear brake circuit.
Snug as a bug in a rug.
Alright now these guys,
just kinda hang together like that.
Then we can see where they go together like that
and meet the circuits down underneath the cross-member.
Alright now we'll install the
proportioning valve and get ready for
the master cylinder. We're on the homestretch.
Alright I'm gonna feed the lines down right
through here, carefully.
It's a bit of a jigsaw puzzle.
Not too bad.
Now we'll loosely mount the prop valve on the firewall.
Just like that.
Here's a line from the rear reservoir of
the master cylinder that goes back to
our rear brake circuit and I'm going to snug
these in place right now.
After I get everything snugged in, and after we make
sure that there's no leaks in the system,
Then I'll clamp it all down to the frame
rails and cross members. I want to be
able to get access in case I gotta give
these an extra little twist.
There's that.
Alright, so the rear circuits complete.
Now, I'm gonna hold my brass T in place
with an adjustable wrench and use the
line wrenches to tighten up the line fittings.
I'll get the top line from the front
reservoir of the master to the crossover
for the front circuit,
and I'll give it one little extra bit of love.
OK. Now everything's good and snug.
Now, I'm going to cap off these guys real
quick, so we don't lose any more fluid
on the installation. There's that, drain it back in.
Now we can put this sucker in it's new happy home.
Now to make sure the brake plungers in the right place and it is. Oh yea, were home.
[Ratcheting]
Leave that a little bit loose till we
get our lines hooked up.
Throw something down here to catch any brake fluid that might
fall out and we're gonna get rid of our
plastic fittings. I kind of hamburgered them up
tightening them a little too tight, but they're
plastic fittings. Now we're going to lose
a little bit of fluid, not a whole lot.
Just make sure the threads are caught there.
OK, there it caught.
Thank you, thank you threads, thank you
line wrench.
Thank you brand new fittings.
Now we'll tighten the master cylinder against the firewall,
and give these a final snug.
[Ratcheting]
There we go. That's snug.
Now that we've got everything bolted in, all the lines are
threaded. Now I can go back and give a
nice final good and tight snug on all of
these line fittings with my flare nut wrench.
OK, there it is. Man that looks fantastic,
except for the fact that I've got brake
fluid all over my inner fender. Now the
paint's garbage on here anyways but if
you had a nicely restored vehicle with
good paint,
here's where your bottle of water comes
in handy. Just neutralize all of that
brake fluid. Now keep in mind of course we
need to bleed the brakes on this truck,
but we've just shown you that it's an
achievable an easy goal to completely
replace all the original vintage carbon
steel lines on this truck and install
new stainless steel brake lines sets, that
not only fit great but they look great
as well. Keep in mind you can look
through LMC Truck catalogs or go to LMCTruck.com
for other ideas on how to
increase the performance and the looks
of your 67 to 72 Chevy pickup.
I'm Kevin Tetz thanks for watching
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