- All right, Mr. Dee.
We're on The Family Plot garden.
Blueberries!
- Blueberries, one of my favorite crops.
- I like blueberries.
- They're easy to grow.
They grow well in this area, provided you plant the right type, and they have very little
insect and disease pressure.
Just really, really neat fruit to grow.
- [Chris] What's the right type?
- The right type is the rabbiteye type.
- [Chris] Rabbiteye?
- And unfortunately, a lot of the stores sell hybrid types, which work well in higher elevation
areas of Tennessee, like the Smoky Mountains.
But you need a rabbiteye type.
And you have a list of those varieties at the extension office.
- I sure do.
- What we have here, blueberries require cross pollination, so you need at least two varieties.
We have Tiff-Blue and Climax here.
They're two of the more popular blueberry varieties in the Southeast United States.
They're proven.
They do well.
That's what I've got at my house.
They really do well.
Time to plant blueberries is preferably when they're dormant, but November to March, and
so we're barely squeezing in on the late end of the planting season.
I'm gonna plant 'em, and I'm gonna dig a whole, pretty wide whole, not that much deeper than,
I wanna make sure they're not planted any deeper than they're growing in the pot.
But I'm going to add Sphagnum, or Canadian peat moss, to the planting hole.
For a home garden, this is two gallons of Canadian or Sphagnum peat moss to mix it in
with the soil at the planting hole.
If you're a commercial grower, it's two or three shovelfuls of peat moss in the planting
hole, the bottom of it, and then plant 'em.
We're gonna do it the commercial way.
And when it says two or three, three.
That means three.
You can't get too much Sphagnum peat moss in the planting hole.
And if you have planted blueberries without putting Sphagnum peat moss and they're just
sitting there and they're not growing, dig 'em up--
- [Chris] Put it in there.
- Put peat moss in the ground and plant 'em on top of it, because the peat moss holds
moisture, and it helps this young plant grow because it increases the water holding capacity
and also is more acidifying.
And blueberries, they do best in a very acid soil, 4.8 to 5.2.
- [Chris] Which is low.
- Prefer 4.8.
So your blueberries kinda need to be off to themselves, because they're pretty much the
only plant in this garden landscape that needs an acid environment.
Azaleas and camellias, you can have your blueberries around your azaleas and camellias, or azaleas,
and you'll be okay.
- [Chris] Yeah, that'd be fine.
- But you need to keep 'em away from our blackberries and our other fruit trees and the figs, peaches.
Almost all the others require a high pH, six, 6.2, or something like that.
In a commercial planting, five to six feet apart is what they recommend, planting them
in a row, with the rows being 10 to 12 feet apart.
I'd give yourself some room, because this rabbiteye type blueberry can get up to 20
feet tall if you let it.
- [Chris] Wow.
- And you can control that with your pruning shears.
But give yourself some room.
I know we've got, we're already marked out here, and I think we have 'em 10 feet apart,
is what we have 'em here.
And that way, they'll be individual shrubs and you can walk completely around 'em and
pick 'em and prune 'em and all that, and that would be the best way to do it, if you have
room.
Don't have room?
Plant 'em five or six feet apart, and you'll have about a eight or 10 foot shrub.
- [Chris] Geez.
- Long, it'll be long.
You won't be able to go between them.
They'll eventually grow together and intertwine together.
- [Chris] I think you'd be best going around 'em.
- Yeah, if you have the room, I prefer to do that.
So we've got our spot marked here, and I guess I'm ready to...
Let me kinda...
- Let me move this one.
- Get it out of the way.
- [Chris] Get that old Bermuda out of there, right?
- [Mr. Dee] Yeah.
- Cut it up a little bit.
- [Mr. Dee] Score the sides.
Even though I don't think we got too much clay here, we'll make sure that the roots
don't have any trouble penetrating.
- All right.
- Okay.
I think that's got it in pretty good shape, so I'm ready to add my Sphagnum peat moss.
- [Chris] Peat moss.
- Two or three good shovelfuls.
Look out.
It's a little dusty now.
- Yeah.
- Which will help the split soil we've got.
That's one.
- All right.
- [Mr. Dee] Two.
- Two.
There you go.
- Three.
We'll go with this Tiff-Blue.
Check the roots out.
- [Chris] Ah.
- [Mr. Dee] Doesn't look too root bound.
I don't think there's any need to do any scoring.
- [Chris] Not too bad.
- [Mr. Dee] I'm just gonna plant that just like it is.
- [Chris] Okay.
- I see that.
Look about the right depth?
I want it the same depth that it grew in the nursery.
All right.
I'm gonna start adding the soil back.
- [Chris] Now, do you like to pack it in as you go?
- [Mr. Dee] Nah.
- [Chris] Okay.
I know some folks like to do that.
- What I need to do is water it in after we get it set.
Gonna have to fight the Bermuda grass.
- [Chris] Oh yeah.
- [Mr. Dee] Course, Poast does a pretty good job, and it's cleared to use on blueberries.
Be very careful with Roundup--
- [Chris] Very careful.
- Around any fruit.
Roundup does strange things to grapes and peaches and things like that, so I prefer
not to use Roundup around my fruits.
- Now, while you're doing it, what about fertilizing?
Of course, it already had fertilizer--
- Don't fertilize the first year.
Blueberries, you can do more damage over fertilizing than under fertilizing, so go very light.
Do not use ammonium nitrate.
It's better not to use nitrate forms of fertilizer.
When you add your nitrogen, you probably need to use ammonium sulfate.
That will lower the pH because of the sulfur.
Kind of a rule of thumb to planting blueberries for me is to take off about a third of the
growth.
I'm not gonna worry about a third, but I am gonna take off all the fruit and blooms, because
this first year, I went all the energy to go to growing a plant.
This little blueberry has quite a bit of fruit on it, as you can see.
- [Chris] Yes, it does.
- And it really handicaps the plant if you leave it on here.
It will make it grow off a lot slower.
All right.
Time to add a little sulfur.
Like I said, I think we need to drop it one whole point from about 5.8 to six to 4.8 to
five, and that is 3/10 of a pound of elemental sulfur per 10 by 10 foot area.
So we're gonna fertilize about a 10 by 10 foot area.
I've got it pre-weighed out here.
I'm just gonna...
I want it to be as uniform, and I'm gonna stay up wind.
I'm sorry, camera folks.
Left a few clumps here, and I'm gonna step on the clumps and break 'em.
It takes a pretty good while for this to change the pH, for it to get completely mixed in
the soil, but it is water soluble.
So we ought to be okay.
We've done two of the most important things.
We've applied sulfur to lower the pH and we have the Sphagnum peat moss in the planting
hole.
So this blueberry is well on its way to being successful.
- All right.
Well, Mr. Dee, we appreciate that.
- Good deal.
- Can't wait to see what it looks like later.
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