Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan in this video I'll be recycling
some bits and pieces from the workshop and making them into something useful a
swarf guard for the lathe so let's go to the workshop and see how I did it.
You can always tell somebody who's got a Boxford they've probably got burn marks on the back of their hand.
That's due to the way the handle is located for the saddle
being virtually under the tool so when you swarf that comes off the tool
usually comes down this way hits the back of your hand or if you've got your
hand that way goes into the palm of your hand
and you have to flick it out before it burns you.
So what I'm making today is a guard
I have this magnetic stand which is an old one. it's supposed to be a flexible rod
but this type of rod or flexible shaft is never flexible
It will only go where it wants to go it did have a perspex screen which was
useful for clipping on there but it doesn't want to go there anymore
so what I thought I would do is remove the magnet which is okay, which will fit on here.
make something to fit this magnet so I can fit a screen here
to protect your hand from this swarf, stop the swarf coming on to the floor.
Because being a small tray underneath that the machines built on any swarf that
comes out half it goes on the floor so if I can prevent it going on the floor it's less work for me.
I've had a scout around and what I found is this plastic.
It's a document holder for sheets of A4 paper but the hinges of broke off it
this is Ideal, half of this will do as a guard.
If I fit it on here, If I've got my hand here any swarf should hit the back of this and go down the back.
keep it off my hand
What I need to do is get some way of fitting this piece of plastic onto this magnet.
Remove this flexible mounting a bolt to fit that I've have this piece of aluminium angle
Which will then go on top of there and I can fit this plastic sheet something like that.
I could still move it in and out with the magnet or twist it to give me a bit of adjustment on it
The main part it wants to come down so that the handle is behind the screen
to reduced the chance of swarf coming off the tool tip onto your hand.
When you're turning the handle.
We've got the magnet got the aluminium that will just have a hole drilled in
for clearance for a bolt I'll be able to twist this on the top of the magnet
and then I have two holes in here two screws to fit the plastic sheet on.
What I have at the moment ER20 collet adapter and I've put in a 10mm bolt
the reason why I'm using collets is because with the chuck, the diameter
of the chuck is out here and it makes it difficult to get in with the tool
I'm having to turn with the tool pointing that way so can turn the face
And I need to reduce this down in diameter then I'll cut it off.
9.8mm the diameter of this thread 9.4mm
9.42mm
I'll hold that in a vice and saw the thread off.
Then I'll just put it in a three jaw chuck turn a lead on the beginning and thread the diameter
It's reading about 0.006" I don't think I'm going to get it any better than that.
I did have a comment on the dial indicator holder saying why didn't I put a nice thumb screw on there
so I could tighten the dial indicator up rather than a grub screw
and this is a reason
To get in to your job on this chuck I can go there If I had a thumb screw on this
the dial indicator would probably be there that's why.
And the reason why I didn't put the screw on the top is because on this block
the thickness of the material on the top it's not thick enough for a thread
that's why it's in the end because I've allowed for the thread
I've fitted by die guide this is the same fitment here that I use for my tap guide.
all I've done is taken the spring-loaded bit that goes in the end
for taps take that out and then this piece will fit on which the die is held
in there it slides on to this bar so that's free to turn you feed it in with
your tail stock and turn the chuck
you can put some pressure on the back until it starts to cut.
Then you don't need any pressure anymore
once you've cut a couple of threads it will start to pull itself in
just take the sharp edge off
We've got the magnetic block with the bolt going in the next thing I need to do is
get this aluminium plate drill a hole in the center of the plate there to fit the bolt.
but before we do that we'll have some more top tips
This is a dustpan I purchased from my local DIY centre it's an extra large dustpan and I've made some modifications to it
I've drilled a hole through the back to fit a pipe
I fitted a 1 1/2" plastic pipe with a cable tie and on
this end of modified an old vacuum cleaner tool by fitting it to the pan cutting
a slot in the front when I attach it to the hose it'll suck any dirt through
the slot when I need to clean some dirt off the floor put the pan on the floor
sweep the dirt onto the tray and the vacuum sucks it up into the shop vac
I found with this Boxford lathe on the switch there slid that under there
and it'll hold in position, take a brush and brush the swarf into the dust pan
ready to go into the bin
and under the lathe at the back in the coolant tray there's a perforated disc
to let the coolant drain out and I've added an eye into the
middle so when you try to get the perforated disc out in your suds drain
you're not grabbing the edge getting all swarf on your hands you can just lift it
with the the eye clean it out and replace it
to clean it out you can use a magnetic pickup and all you do is
remove the disc put the magnet down inside
move it around and you can actually go down with the magnet into the pipe
that's there to clean anything that's blocking the pipe.
Under the tail stock there's a recess you tend to get bits of swarf going down that recess.
once more if you take a magnet you can put the magnet down there take out the
swarf brush it into the bin
I have this set of center drills from bang-good
there are six drills in the set there high speed steel with a coating
The center drill I normally use would probably this one or this one
very rare I'd use the large one
or the very small ones I suppose people doing a model engineering would use
smaller drills
it would be nice if you could buy these in a pack of six of the same size.
So that you could select what size you need rather than a pack of six different ones
I'll take the 6mm drill and we'll see how that performs on the aluminium
which it should do quite easily
it's drilled that okay that's in aluminium.
I'll see how I get on with these, I will use them in the lathe and we can see how the go over the next few weeks.
Now we've got this on there I will drill two holes in here 5mm and tap 6mm
Drill one in this corner and one over in that corner.
That should fit just on there, now when my hands on the wheel here.
Any swarf will hit the back of this drop down onto the tray
`so I'm not going to get a handful of hot swarf.
if I need to adjust the angle I can twist it on the top
that's it for today thanks for watching
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we'll see you next time on Enots engineering
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